Flowers
African Bush Daisy
Q: I have some bush daisy plants and right now they are looking pretty sad. Can I prune them now?
A: Several people have called me in the last two weeks asking about pruning various 
perennials, shrubs and trees. Many people, like you, have said the plants look poorly this time of year and they want to prune them down to the ground. As a general rule, dead limbs can be removed from trees and shrubs any time of year. Ideally, it is best to prune plants just after they have finished blooming or fruiting but most perennials require little or no formal pruning. For instance, azaleas should be pruned in the late spring or early summer just after they have finished flowering. Pruning now would cause them to lose buds for flowering next year. Your African Bush Daisy would survive severe pruning now but if we experience unseasonably warm weather your plant would be fooled into thinking it should put out new growth. This new growth would be vulnerable if temperatures drop suddenly, which is very probable. The new growth would freeze and damage the plant. It is best to take a “grin and bear it” attitude with perennials for now. Refrain from pruning them until we are certain the threat of frost is over. I know your next question will be regarding the exact date. Well, we need to be somewhat flexible. Most experts agree the threat of frost is over in Northeast Florida sometime in middle March or the beginning of April. I know it is difficult to see the landscape looking so poorly but it will not take long before things will be green and blooming. So, think about setting aside your pruning shears this time of year – have them sharpened instead.
Amaryllis
Q: My neighbor gave me some gorgeous pink and white amaryllis for Christmas. She told me they could be planted in the yard. How do I take care of these beautiful plants?
A: The following information was gleaned from a University of Florida/IFAS publication titled, “Amaryllis” by Dr. Sydney Brown and Dr. Robert Black. The complete document web link is attached below. Amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the ground anytime between September and January. Amaryllis plants do best in light or dappled shade. In heavy shade, they will be thin, spindly and flower poorly. These plants require well-drained soils amended with organic matter or compost. Use slow-release forms of fertilizer to minimize leaching of nutrients into water resources. Apply 2-3 light applications of fertilizer during growing season, which is March through September. Plant the bulbs 12 to 15 inches apart with the neck of the bulb protruding above the ground. Water newly planted amaryllis and keep them moist but not waterlogged until the plants are well-established. The bulbs may be left in the ground for several years or dug and reset every September or October. It is not necessary to dig, separate, and replant each year, but doing so will encourage uniform flowering and larger blooms. Digging also provides an opportunity to discard unhealthy bulbs, to remove young offsets (bulblets) and to amend the bed with organic matter. Control weeds by spreading a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bed at planting time and remove any that appear. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP060
Q: I have a place on the beach and I want to plant something that will help me reduce the erosion along the dunes but also have pretty flowers. I will not be able to water it so it has to be hardy enough to survive. Do you have any ideas?
A: Even with the limitations you gave me, I have an idea of a plant that will be well suited
for the site. Consider using Beach sunflower, Helianthus debilis. This plant is low growing reaching heights of only three to four feet which would not block your view of the beach. It spreads readily three to four feet in all directions, which should help prevent the loss of sand from your dune area. Beach sunflower is deciduous which means it is not evergreen. It will probably die back during cold weather but should quickly return when spring arrives. However, when winters are mild, some parts of the plant may stay green. If you decide to use it for covering the dunes, Beach sunflower should be planted as soon as possible as it will require time to establish before cooler temperatures occur. This plant is often carried by local nurseries although you may have some difficulty finding it at franchise garden centers. It grows quickly and tolerates most any kind of soil. Beach sunflower is highly drought tolerant and has a good salt tolerance. It should be planted in full sun and will bloom pretty yellow, daisy-like flowers from spring through the fall. You will need to water it initially for a week or two but once it is established, it should not require any irrigation except what it receives from natural rainfall. Attached is a publication from the University of Florida/IFAS with more specific information regarding Beach sunflower. http://hort.ufl.edu/shrubs/HELDEBA.PDF
Beggarticks
Q: What are the white wildflowers growing along the
roadside all around town? They look like small daisies.
A : You are probably referring to the White Beggar-ticks (Bidens alba) plant. Beggar-tick is not a very flattering name for such a sweet looking flower but it was named because the seed contains barbs. The barbs give the seed the ability to attach to animal fur or clothing which in turn allows the plant to propagate in other areas. This propagation ability explains why you see it all over the roadside areas. Beggar-ticks are found throughout Florida and bloom from the summer through fall in North Florida.
Black-eyed Susan
Q: What
are the beautiful yellow flowers growing along the roadside? 
A: The wildflowers you are referring to are probably Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, or Florida Tickweed. Florida tickweed is not a very attractive name for such a lovely flower but the word tickweed is given to any number of daisy-like flowers common to North America. This plant is found abundantly throughout the United States except Nevada and New Mexico. Its normal habitat is open woods, fields, and roadsides. Rudbeckia can tolerate a variety of soil conditions and is moderately drought tolerant. This plant prefers full sun but can tolerate some light shade which is the reason you may find it along the forest edge. Rudbeckia is a favorite nectar plant of many of our local butterflies. Some species are annual while others are biennial or perennial. The golden yellow-orange flower is about 3 inches across and the plant can grow over 3 feet tall. If you want to propagate from seed, be sure to keep them high enough in the soil to allow them light exposure as they can only germinate in the light. Please go to the Florida Wildflower Council website listed below where you will be able to look at a variety of Florida wildflowers. Many of these flowers are easy to propagate and grow well in our sandy soils. They provide food for wildlife and of course they are beautiful. http://floridawildflowercouncil.org/species_information.htm
Q: My
has seemingly betrayed me this year - I
have grown this plant successfully both North and South (Amelia
Island), with flowering from late/spring, early summer through
the fall; this year I have the orange-yellow with the dark center
(probably one of the hybrids?). 
After
a good, but not profuse bloom this spring, I have had no blooms. I
am growing four plants that I have trained up a water oak, each
at a "compass corner", each with its own planter; plant
has now reached over 8 feet on all sides of the tree. They
get partial shade until about 10, sun from 10 to about 2, partial
shade thereafter. I have fertilized with miracle grow as
well as, alternately, osmocote with some milorganite ( 6-2-0)
occasionally; other than the small amount of nitrogen in the
milorganite, I've used fertilizer intended for flowering plants. Any
idea why I'm getting no flowers?
A: Regarding the blooming of Thunbergia Alata also called Black-eyed Susan or Clock vine; you may have two contributing factors limiting the amount of blooms. It may need more direct sunlight and it may be receiving too much nitrogen. Eliminate the fertilizer, which may be increasing the production of foliage but at the expense of blooms. The increased number of blooms in the spring may have been the result of the trees having less dense foliage. This plant thrives in direct sunlight therefore may continue to climb in order to obtain the desired sunlight. If possible transplant it in an area where it can receive the maximum sunlight and reduce the amount of fertilizer next year. Perhaps an arbor would work better? One additional note, it prefers loose, well-drained soil but likes the soil to remain slightly moist.
Bulbs
Q: Can I dip my bulbs in fungicide to prevent them from getting diseased?
A: The best way to prevent the occurrence of bulb rots is to make the sure the planting site is prepared so it will be well drained. Avoid planting in areas that are poorly drained or that collect water. You can dip them in a fungicide however if your site is too wet the bulbs are ill fated and will succumb to disease. Plant at the proper depth, encourage good air circulation, and manage water needs. Plants that are growing vigorously are best able to resist diseases. T o minimize convenient entry points for pathogens, take care to avoid wounding when handling bulbs. Buy from a reputable source and examine bulbs for any bruises or other damage. Fungal microorganisms often gain entrance through wounds created by insects or improper handling of the bulbs. Extended periods of wet weather favor infection. Diagnosis of below-ground problems involves hands-on investigation. Symptomatic plants need to be dug and examined. Diseased bulbs usually are discolored, soft, and may emit a foul odor. In some cases, there may be a black or bluish mold on the bulbs. Diseased bulbs should be discarded, along with some of the surrounding soil. One other option would be to plant Louisiana Iris or Chinese Orchid which tolerate wet feet.
Q: Do I need to dig up my caladiums every year to keep them alive?
A: Caladiums need high organic, acid soils with consistent moisture but not too wet or soggy.
Most of them do not like temperatures lower than the mid sixties. Therefore, it might work best to dig them up from the soil if you plan to keep them in the same site from year to year. Any diseased or damaged tubers should be destroyed. Healthy tubers should be cleaned of soil, dried and placed in a well ventilated area where temperatures will remain between 70°F and 90°F. Under these conditions, the tubers may sprout new leaves but they should not be planted outside until the outdoor soil temperature remains consistently above 65°F. Some gardeners in Northeast Florida treat caladiums as annuals and replace them from year to year. Other gardeners have been successful at leaving the tubers in the ground but covering them with mulch to keep them warm during cooler times. Those living along the coast of Florida may have good success leaving caladiums in the ground under certain conditions such as protected, shady sites. If you really love the variety caladiums can give you, consider growing them in containers. This will make it easier to bring them inside from the cold during winter months. I have given you a lot of options; try any combination of these to determine what works best for you. The most updated information regarding caladiums from UF/IFAS is found in the publication “Caladiums as Potted and Landscaped Plants”, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg278.
Butterfly Pea
Q: I have this pretty vine in a wooded area behind my house. The flowers are purple and they are about an inch long. They look similar to a large pea flower. Do you have any idea what they might be?
A: The flowers you described are probably one of the Butterfly pea vines in the genus Centrosem
a or Clitoria. This deciduous vine produces flowers from late spring through the summer. Butterfly pea grows in full sun to partial shade which attracts wildlife such as birds and butterflies. Just today, as I was identifying trees in one of our local parks, I saw a Zebra longwing drawing nectar from its flower. Butterfly pea prefers acid, sandy soils commonly found in this area. You can propagate it easily by collecting seeds. If you decide to plant it in your yard, it might be best to keep it away from sprinkler heads. Consider giving the Butterfly pea plenty of room to grow or a trellis to climb. This plant can be found as far west as Illinois, north to New Jersey and south to the Virgin Islands.
Photo by Rebecca Jordi, UF/IFAS
Clematis
Q: I have a vine in my yard that has very feathery seed heads. Do you have any idea what the plant might be called?
A: I am so glad you brought me some samples of this plant. The
seeds are from the clematis vine
and the seed heads are very attractive
even though the vine is dead and no flower is present. Clematis
vines are among the most decorative and spectacular of flowering
vines. They are a varied group of mostly woody, deciduous vines,
though Clematis armandii is evergreen. There is great variety
in flower form, color, bloom season, foliage effect and plant height.The
old saying about clematis growth is, "The first year they sleep,
the second year they creep and the third year they leap." Growth
may seem slow as the plant builds its root system, but once established,
clematis are strong growers. Avoid planting in extremely wet locations
as they can be prone to root rots. The site should be open enough
to allow for air movement around the plants, but protection from
strong winds is also desirable. Provide support for the vine but
it should not be grown directly against the home. Irrigate vines
deeply once a week during dry seasons. Vines need at least an inch
of water a week either from rain or irrigation. Renew mulch to a
2-inch depth in late spring after the soil has warmed unless a groundcover
or other method is used to cool the root environment. Work a good
general fertilizer gently into the soil surface in spring. Do not
feed clematis during flowering. In the autumn, a mulch of well-rotted
manure or compost will be beneficial.
Clivia
Q: What can you tell me about the Kaffir lily?
A: This lily is better names Clivia, Clivia minata. It
is a true bulb and can be planted any time of 
year just below soil
surface. If planted too deeply it may never bloom or reach
its full potential. The bulbs should be placed about 9-12 inches
apart in rich, organic soil. It tolerates a wide pH soil range
but does not like the soil too moist. The orange to scarlet
colored flowers are produced in clusters, similar to amaryllis. It
will bloom more freely if slightly confined so growing it in a container
will work well. This plant is considered a tender perennial
in our zone 8b-9a but it has been grown here with a good deal of
success. This bulb is often difficult to find but is common
in older homes. In northern areas, it is better to use Clivia
as a houseplant.
Cone Flower
Q: I see you have yellow cone flowers in the Demonstration garden but can you give me some information on the purple variety?
A: Nothing reminds me more of summer than the sight of cone flowers in their full glory. 
The purple cone flower, Echinacea purpurea, can grow to heights of nearly four feet which makes them attractive additions to most any garden.It is common to propagate them by seed and many seed catalogs carry several varieties. Consider growing some of these beauties in those common areas of your subdivisions so everyone can enjoy them. Cone flowers are extremely hardy, very drought tolerant, and can grow in most any type of soil. Some of them start blooming in the spring while others burst forth in the summer. They are found throughout most of the United States. Cone flowers can be grown in full sun as well as some dappled light. The roots of the purple cone flower have been used to treat skin ailments and other disease. The photo attached is of a pink variety of the cone flower in my own yard. For more information on the purple cone flower, check out the UF/IFAS publication by Dr. Ed Gilman: http://hort.ufl.edu/shrubs/ECHPURA.PDF
Coreopsis
Q: I am new to the area and I wanted to plant some native wildflowers around my mailbox. I saw some very pretty yellow flowers in the Nassau County Demonstration garden. What can you tell me about them?
A: Welcome to Nassau County Florida. We are always delighted to hear from someone
who is interested in plantings from our demonstration garden. The flowers you are referring to are the State flower of Florida called coreopsis. These plants grow best in full sun with moist, well drained soil. Like most wildflowers, these do not respond well to too much water. They generally bloom in the late spring and will return in the fall if the flowers were removed in the spring. Florida also has a variety of coreopsis which blooms exclusively during the fall. I have attached a publication from the University of Florida regarding wildflowers best suited for Northeast Florida. I hope you will consider trying some of these seeds as an addition to your new Florida landscape. In addition, we will be having a program on September 16 at 10am called “Landscape Matters” on wildflowers by Nassau County Master Gardener volunteer Claudie Speed. Landscape Matters will be at the demonstration garden site at the James S. Page Governmental Complex off Nassau Place (the road next to the Merita Bread Outlet). Fall is a wonderful time to visit the demonstration garden as it will be filled with butterflies and birds. I hope you will be able to join us. The program is free to the public. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP061
Crinum Lily
Q: Could you please identify this plant for us?
A: Thanks for sending me a photo of your plant, it is always easier when trying to identify
plants or insects. This is a common beach and landscape plant here in Florida. It is called Crinum lily, Crinum spp. There are many cultivars of this hardy plant and it has become a common feature in residential landscapes. This plant tolerates full sun or even partial shade and prefers be grown in well drained soil. Crinum lily can tolerate periods of flooding and drought, acid or slightly alkaline soils. Crinum lily is grown easily in all parts of Florida, as well as south Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas and California. Similar to any perennial, it may appear to die in cold winter temperatures but will quickly return during warm spring weather. Crinum lily is propagated by division of tubers. White flowers are borne in large clusters with a very pleasant aroma.
Cypressvine
Q: My neighbor has a pretty, delicate vine growing in her yard. The vine has fine, feathery leaves and a bright red flower. It is blooming now. Do you have any idea what it is?
A: Normally, it would be very difficult to identify this type of plant without bringing in.gif)
a specimen to the office but I have had this question more than once this week. One of the questions was from my husband, as this same vine is growing in my neighborhood. The vine is known by several common names such as Cypressvine, Star glory or Cardinal climber, Ipomoea quamoclit. Cypressvine is in the Convolvulaceae or morning glory Family. The beautiful red flower has five points which resembles the star we drew in elementary art class as children. Cypressvine probably originated from Mexico but is now readily established throughout most of the Southern U.S. It is not an aggressive vine therefore it is not considered an invasive pest here in the northeast part of Florida. However, there are some plants in the genus Ipomoea which have been found on the invasive list for some parts of Florida. Cypressvine generally prefers partial sun to shade, therefore this is not a vine to grow in full, afternoon sun sites. It can be propagated by seed but you may have some difficulty finding this vine at local nurseries. The seeds germinate quickly (within one week). http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=IPQU
Daffodils
Q: When should I plant daffodil bulbs? I am
having difficulty finding them this time of year and I suspect
it may be the wrong time to plant them.
A: Your instinct is correct. Daffodil bulbs should be planted in the fall of the year (around November) to ensure they will bloom in the early spring.I checked out the American Society of Daffodils for specific information. They like moist, well drained organic soil in a sunny location. However, they don't like wet feet so avoid the tendency to over water. Slightly acidic soil is best, so you might add soil sulfur if you have alkaline soil. Plant your daffodils so that their top (pointed end) is at least two times as deep as the bulb is high (top of a 2" bulb is 4" deep). Exactness isn't crucial; they'll adjust. Bulbs should be planted deeper in sandy soil than in clay soil. Top-dress again with 5-10-10 when the leaf-tips emerge. As they flower, top-dress with 0-10-10 or 0-0-50. High-nitrogen fertilizer should be avoided.Daffodils need lots of water while they are growing. Water immediately after planting and keep them moist until the rains come. Continue watering for three weeks or so after blooming time; then stop watering. The bulbs make their next year's bloom after flowering. (Your first-year bloom is largely due to the previous grower of the bulb.) You may leave daffodils down in the ground for between 3 to 5 years. If blooming does not happen one season, it would be best to move them to a new location.
Firespike
Q: This plant is growing in a greenbelt area near my home. Can you tell me what it is? I have enclosed a photo.
A: Thank you for your photo which made identifying it so much easier. Firespike.gif)
, Odontonema strictum, is a native plant and is found all over the Northeast Florida area. The bright, red spikes are blooming now which is probably what brought it to your attention. Firespike attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. It grows in partial sun to partial shade in any type of soil. It tolerates salt poorly therefore should not be planted at the beach or near salt marshes. Attached is a publication on Firespike from the University of Florida/IFAS. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FP445
Flowers
Q: What can I plant this time of year (December) that will provide color in the landscape?
A: Florida's mild winters give gardeners the opportunity to grow beautiful flowering annuals that are grown elsewhere in the spring and summer. Chrysanthemums, foxglove, nasturtium, ornamental cabbage, petunias, sweetpea, and violas are just a few. They should be grown in moist, organic soil.
Goldenrod
Q: I live in an area surrounded by wildflowers and I have noticed the goldenrod is blooming. Some people say the goldenrod causes my allergies but others say it is pollen from another plant. I don’t want to remove my wildflowers unless it is totally necessary. What do you think?
A: You are not alone in having allergy reactions
this time of year, thousands of people experience some form of
allergic reaction in the fall. Hay fever is a commonly used term
for pollen allergy, a type of seasonal allergic rhinitis (nasal
irritation or inflammation). 
Pollen
grains can be dispersed into the air in all year long depending
on the type of tree, grass, weeds and/or weather conditions. Ragweed
is a common cause of pollen allergy reactions in the fall. In Northeast
Florida, ragweed often grows along the same sites as goldenrod.
Since goldenrod puts out a showy yellow flower people assume it
is to blame for the allergic reaction when ragweed is actually
the culprit. Plain-looking trees, grasses and weeds, which do not
have showy flowers, produce the types of pollen that most commonly
cause allergic reactions. These plants manufacture small, light,
dry pollen granules that are custom-made for wind transport. Although
most allergenic pollen comes from plants that produce it in huge
quantities, it's the chemical makeup of the pollen that determines
whether it is likely to cause hay fever. I checked the National
Allergy Bureau for the pollen count in our area, which was done
in Ocala last week, and the pollen count from weeds and grass registered
as “high severity”. Many of our local news media now
discuss the pollen counts during their weather reports so check
those out if you know you have specific problems. The National
Allergy Bureau monitors pollen counts in many locations throughout
the United States and you can call them at 1-800-9-POLLEN for pollen
counts. Generally, pollen is most abundant in the early morning,
especially between 5:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. so if you exercise
outdoors you might consider changing to an afternoon or evening
time. Rain can wash pollen out of the air for a time, and some
plants may not pollinate in damp weather. (This information was
adapted from the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases).
Hibiscus
Q: I have two, three year old hibiscus plants. They are in full sun with a southern exposure. The foliage is dark green and very healthy. I fertilize about once a month with azalea fertilizer. The plants produce buds but no blooms. They fall off before opening. Do you have the solution?
A: You have placed your plants in the best area as full
sun
and southern
exposure are perfect for growing hibiscus. There are several
possible reasons for bud drop on hibiscus. Fertilizing every
month is a bit excessive, 4 times a year is generally considered
very generous. Excessive fertilizer will cause the plant to
put out lush foliage often at the expense of blooms. Stop
the fertilizing until next spring. Water fluctuations (too
much or too little) can cause bud drop and we have certainly seen
plenty of rain. Check the soil, hibiscus like moist well-drained
soil but not wet soil. Most varieties of hibiscus prefer
temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees and fluctuations above or
below the optimum temperatures can cause bud drop. In addition,
some varieties are especially susceptible to bud drop if environmental
conditions are not perfect - the result of extensive hybridization. I
hope this helps.
Q: I had a beautiful blooming hibiscus plant that froze last year but came back once the weather became warm. It has large green leaves but no blooms. What could be wrong?
A: Tell me a little more about your hibiscus. What
are your watering and fertilizing practices? Since the hibiscus
returned full of leaves, it should have produced blooms for you. One
possible answer could stem from over fertilization. Many of
us have a tendency to over fertilize hoping to produce more blooms
than usual but some of our plants outsmart us by putting that additional
energy into leaf production rather than blooms. If that scenario
applies to your hibiscus consider cutting back on fertilizing except
in the spring and hopefully by next year you will see more blooms. This
is a good example of when less it more!Nematodes, nutritional deficiencies,
over fertilization, and environmental factors such as poor drainage
and excessive water, drought, or salt spray can cause flower buds
to drop. Flowers are produced most of the year in
Q: When would be a good time for me to prune my Confederate Rose?
A: We would suggest you prune hibiscus trees and perennial plants when the threat of frost is over. When is the threat over? Well, that is debatable so I am going to be vague. The threat of frost should be over sometime between the middle of March and the first week in April. Shrubs such as azaleas are the exception to that rule as they should be pruned directly after flowering is over. The Confederate Rose, Hibiscus mutabili, or Dixie Rose responds best to minimal amounts of pruning. It requires very little care and adapts to most soil and light conditions. These plants demonstrate insect and disease problems associated with high nitrogen applications and too much water. Ideally, they should be planted alone where they will receive adequate light and air circulation.
Hollyhock
Q: Can I grow hollyhock here in North Florida?
A: Hollyhock, Althaea rose, can indeed be grown here as an annual or perennial. 
Many garden enthusiasts love to start hollyhocks from seed but they are also a good choice for beginning gardeners. They should be planted in a bright, sunny site. Planting dates are from the last threat of frost through June. They should be removed at the first sign of frost. The blooms come in a wide of colors so pick you favorite or choose a number of complementary colors for your summer and fall garden. If you garden is small consider selecting one of the varieties that grows only two – three feet tall. Some hollyhock plants reach heights of up to seven feet which would be a poor choice for small plots. Other possible plant selections are listed in the UF/IFAS publication titled, “Bedding Plants: Selection, Establishment, and Maintenance”, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG319. You will notice the table is divided into three sections, North, Central and South Florida. When examining the table of plants listed, be sure to choose only those suitable for the North Florida area.
Hydrangea
Q: I have heard about a new variety of hydrangea which is supposedly quite different from the normal hydrangea which produces large rounded flower heads. I am told they come in a larger variety of colors. What can you tell me about these hydrangeas?
A: I am attaching the newest research document from the University of Florida to give you 
the best perspective on these new hydrangeas. Hydrangea plants will do extremely well here but I would plant them in areas where they will be protected from direct, summer afternoon sun. Morning sun will suit them well. Lace cap hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla, which is the same genus species as the mop heads. The lace cap hydrangea get there name from the structure of the flowers which have center, small, bud-like structures surrounded by large, open individual hydrangea flowers. I recently purchased three to add to my landscape and I am extremely happy with them. The photo is of one of my recent additions, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Mariesii’. Not long ago, I was asked why ‘Lady in Red’, which is a current popular hydrangea cultivar, had pink flowers and not red flowers. She is called ‘Lady in Red’ because the flower petioles or stems are red. This particular hydrangea stem provides a nice contrast against the large green leaves and pink flowers. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP287
Q: Can I prune my hydrangea now?
A: Pruning
hydrangea, Hydrangea
macrophyllathe
ones 
with the large globe-shaped flowers would be a mistake
this time of year. It will
result in fewer if any flowers next May or June. Pruning
can be accomplished at two different times. Late summer is more
desirable, since most of these hydrangea types flower only from
the end buds of upright or lateral shoots produced during late
summer and fall of the previous season. Prune as soon as the flowers
have faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts
of the stems and crown. Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots
that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of
old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems
that will flower the following season. Flower color is dependent
upon the pH of the soil in which it is grown: blue if acid; pink
if alkaline. There are also several white flowered cultivars.
Q: I have always heard that the old fashioned mop-head hydrangeas bloom on old wood. I love them in the house. Does that mean that each time I cut a blossom this year, I am robbing next year's bloom?
A: This pruning information comes from Connell
University Extension: 
"Pruning
can be accomplished at two different times. Late summer is more
desirable, since most hydrangea flower only from the end buds
of upright or lateral shoots produced during late summer and
fall of the previous season. Prune as soon as the flowers have
faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts of
the stems and crown. Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots
that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of
old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems
that will flower the following season. Early spring pruning (March),
although acceptable, will result in the sacrificing of bloom
for that growing season. Pruning this species too late in the
fall (after September) is harmful. New growth, both vegetative
and reproductive, will not develop proper maturity."
Q: This year, we noticed that one of the hydrangeas was not fully blooming, and then my hubby noticed mites/aphids underneath the leaves. Some of the leaves at the very ends look almost burnt or fried and the hydrangea looks so unhealthy. We have sprayed all hydrangeas with horticulture soap on days when we know that it will not rain. The other 7 are blooming but through-out each one, you can see random leaves that are burnt or fried at the ends also. We hope it will not infect the others as much. Thanking you in advance of your information.
A: I am not certain but I suspect you have a blight called Botrytis Blight which often causes the blooms to die before they open. Botrytis blight is a fungus that can affect leaves, stems, crowns, flowers, flower buds, seeds, seedlings, bulbs, and just about any other part of a plant with the exception of the roots. This disease is especially prevalent during warm, wet seasons (similar to what we have been experiencing). The plants may be too close together; therefore you might consider moving them during their dormant season (late winter or early spring) to allow for better air circulation. Avoid watering late in the day, morning hours are best. Avoid overhead irrigation on any of your ornamentals; it only increases the chance of spreading disease. Hydrangea prefers a moist, but not wet, organic rich soil. However, it is important to remove leaf debris as soon as it occurs. You may prune a few inches below the dead area, but use sterile methods (clean your pruning shears with a weak bleach solution or alcohol between each cutting). Destroy any of the diseased pruned plant parts immediately. The cultural methods listed previously will help curb the disease, but ethylene bisdithiocarbamate by be applied if you feel it is necessary to spray a chemical. In addition, you can continue to apply insecticidal soap and/or horticulture oil to control the aphids.
Larkspur
Q: What can you tell me about larkspur?
A: Larkspur or delphinium is grown as an annual
here in Northeast Florida, 
but in northern and western parts of the U.S. it can be a perennial.
It can easily be propagated by seed and is often available as a beautiful
plant in the spring. Check your favorite seed catalog company for
potential favorites. Just remember to re-order each fall. What makes
this plant so exceptional is the bloom color is a true blue, which
is rare in the plant kingdom. However, the color of the bloom is
not limited to blue, other colors such as yellow, pink and white
also occur. Each seed produces a tall stalk reaching heights averaging
2-3 feet, although a few can grow to 6 feet! Larkspurs prefer cool
weather therefore it germinates in the winter here and blooms in
the early spring. Larkspurs are unable to handle our hot, humid summers
and they will die back once the temperatures get too warm. This plant
also makes a wonderful cut flower, just be sure to clip it just prior
to peak blooming. One additional note: delphiniums are poisonous
to humans and some animals if eaten so be sure to keep the family
pet out of the flower bed if they are prone to tasting the landscape.
Mandevilla
Q: My Mandevilla has died and I was wondering what would cause it.
A: Known for its showy flowers, the genus Mandevilla
includes
plants that were formerly called Dipladenia. This plant
grows well on a trellis and is sometimes referred to as Allamanda.
There are about 100 species of this tropical American woody vine
and most species survive the winter only in the tropical South because
its hardiness zone is 10-11. Mandevilla will show signs of freeze
damage when temperatures drop below 45 degrees. Because of it being
sensitive to cooler temperatures, it is often classified in our area
as an annual if planted outside. Remember, in Nassau County we are
either 9a, which is on the east coast or 8b, which is on the west
side of the county. Mandevilla requires full sun and well drained
soils, which means too much water, can create root problems. If you
love this plant, you may consider placing it in a hanging basket
so it can easily be transported indoors when the temperatures drop
too low. The cultivar “Red Riding Hood” produces red
flowers, “Summer Snow” flowers are white, “Pink
Allamanda” flowers pink, and the cultivar “Yellow” has
yellow flowers. If you keep it indoors it has a tendency to get mealy
bugs and scale, so be watchful. Keep insecticidal soap and horticulture
oil on hand to help control those troublesome pests.
Mexican Petunia
Q: I would like to know when to prune my Mexican Petunia so it will produce more flowers.
A: Mexican
Petunia, Ruellia brittoniana, also
called Britton’s wild petunia is classified as an invasive
for
Florida according to the Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/ruebri.html). It
is sold in nurseries everywhere but it easily escapes into wildlife
areas and therefore is not the best choice for a landscape plant.
Like many perennials, it will die back when cold weather comes but
will quickly return in the spring. So to answer your question,
we would not want you to prune it back to encourage it to produce
more flowers and therefore more seed. It might be best to allow
it to go dormant during the winter to avoid over-production of seeds.
Orchid
Q: I found this plant in my yard. What is it? 
A: I believed it to be a terrestrial orchid but sent photos to UF Herbarium so they could give me more information. They identified it as Zeuxine strateumatica (L.) Schltr., commonly known as Soldier's Orchid or Lawn Orchid. It is native to Asia but is commonly found on open, grassy, and disturbed sites throughout Florida.Flowers occur during the fall through winter (Oct--Jan), but occasionally in the spring. It is found most often in moist areas, including lawns, roadsides, nurseries, farm fields, occasionally hammocks and pinelands. Within a few weeks of producing flowers, the plants are gone. The following year, they may return; then again, they may not. We should count ourselves fortunate to have seen these pretty plants as they may not be here next year.
Pineapple Guava
Q: What can you tell me about Pineapple Guava?
A: Every year, Florida Nursery, Growers and Landscape Association (FNGLA) put out a 
list of top plants of the year. This year, Feijoa sellowiana, or Pineapple Guava, was on the list. Several others listed such as perennial peanut, autumn fern, firebush, silver saw palmetto, Summer Wave pansy, winged elm, and Walter’s viburnum (compact) can be grown in this area. Pineapple guava has gray-green evergreen leaves and it produces pretty, pink spring flowers. Pineapple guava tolerates most any type of soil condition providing it is well drained. It can be planted in full sun or partial shade although too much shade reduces the production of flowers and fruit. Pineapple guava is highly drought and salt spray tolerant. It can be propagated by seed or cuttings. Pineapple guava can be used as a hedge or allowed to form a tree reaching heights of 15 feet with an equal spread. Edible fruit is produced, which apparently tastes somewhat like pineapple, although I have not had the privilege of tasting it yet. Attached is the University of Florida publication by Dr. Ed Gilman and the Forestry Department: http://hort.ufl.edu/trees/FEISELA.pdf The following website contains FNGLA’s listing the 2009 Plants of the Year:
http://www.fngla.org/articles/viewArticle.asp?articleID=805 Perennial peanut can be seen at two of Nassau County’s Extension demonstration gardens: Nassau County Extension Yulee satellite office and the Fernandina Beach Historic Courthouse. The Walter’s viburnum can be seen at the Nassau County Demonstration Garden located at James Pages Governmental Complex in Yulee along with dozens of other easy to grow plants for this area. For more information on the demonstration sites please contact Rebecca Jordi at 904 548-1116 or e-mail at rljordi@ufl.edu Photo from FNGLA Plants of the Year website
Plectranthus
Q: I keep seeing this plant in the garden centers but I am not sure what type of environment it prefers. Can you give me some information on it?
A: The plant you gave me was
from the genus Plectranthus, 
which
is being sold all over this area. This plant is from the mint
family and has very fragrant leaves. We would classify as an
annual for Nassau as its cold hardiness is for zones 9b-11 – remember
Nassau County is 8b-9a so these plants are just outside our zone. Once
the plants have been established for a year or more they can develop
woody stems at the base and can therefore become more resistant to
frost damage. The flowers are pink, purple or white and under
proper conditions bloom from spring through fall, which means the
flowers are seldom damaged by frost. Plectranthus are easily
cultivated and require little extra attention or special treatment. It
tolerates a wide variety of light conditions but thrive in semi shade,
which makes them ideally suited to grow under the shade of trees.
Plectranthus are often grown for their attractive foliage, flowers
or both and vary in their growth forms from dense prostrate ground
covers to sub-shrubs and large shrubs.
Poinsettias
Q: I keep hearing conflicting information about poinsettias being poisonous. Are they poisonous or are they not?
A: The following information was taken in part from the University of Florida website called,
“Solutions for Your Life”, which is attached at the end of this answer. Contrary to popular belief, poinsettias are non-poisonous and non-toxic. However, some people may be sensitive to the latex in poinsettia sap. Although eating even a large number of leaves will not result in illness, the plant is not considered edible. When used as an indoor plant, it should be kept out of reach of children and pets. Some new cultivars involve unusual color combinations or blooming time. The bracts of the Ice Punch cultivar come out red and turn white as they grow. The color pattern of Peppermint Twist's bracts varies from one plant to another, giving each plant a unique look. Advent Red--an annual that blooms as early as October--has been cultivated primarily as a landscape plant. With proper care, your poinsettias may stay colorful for many months. Poinsettias can retain their color until March if they are not exposed to freezing temperatures. Keep your poinsettias away from drafts and chilly air. Poinsettias grow best in well-lit areas, but direct sun or hot lights can dry out the plants. Water your poinsettia when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Place a saucer under the pot, and drain the saucer if water starts to collect in it. Keep the soil from getting soggy. Too much water can kill a poinsettia. Poinsettias are beautiful plants which are excellent choices for gift giving during the holidays. We hope you have a safe and healthy holiday from all of us at the Nassau County UF/IFAS Extension office. http://extension.ifas.ufl.edu/hot_topics/lawn_and_garden/poinsettias.html
Rain Lilies
Q: My neighbor suggested I plant rain lilies but I don’t know anything about them. Can you give me more information?
A: I was unfamiliar with these plants too until
we decided to add them to our demonstration garden. 
This
group of charming bulbs, also known as pink fairy lilies, Zephyr
lilies, and rain lilies is native to North America. In the wild,
flowers bloom after a rain. Incredibly climatically diverse, they
can be found wild in tropical lowlands, rain forests, and arid deserts.
There are rain lilies for every climatic zone that does not experience
long periods of freezing weather. They seem to be quite happy under
domestication, and can be planted year round in North Florida. Rain
lilies thrive in conditions not favorable for true garden lilies.
They produce lush clumps of foliage in the fall when the weather
is cool and can be mistaken during the winter for liriope. Spectacular
effects can be achieved when used in mass plantings. Each species
has a different time schedule for flowering, reaching a peak in July
and August. With careful selection of at least six species you can
have orange, pink, yellow, white, rose, or red rain lilies flowering
for nine months of the year from mid-March until mid-November.
Roses
Q: I am interested in growing roses here. What should I know before I get started?
A:Very few gardeners can resist the temptations of the Rose. For many of us a rose brings to mind romantic memories of warm summer evenings and intoxicating smells. You see, even I wax poetic at the thought of roses. Roses come in a variety of sizes, colors, and scents. They can be in the form of trees, shrubs, miniatures or vines. Be sure to purchase roses grafted on “Fortuniana” rootstock as it is the most cold-hardy for our area. Plant them in full sun and well-drained, organic soil. For best results be sure to irrigate them on a regular basis but keep the water off the leaves to reduce fungal leaf spots. Cut off the fading flowers throughout the blooming season. January would be a good month to prune your roses in North Florida. A UF/IFAS publication on growing roses in Florida by Park-Brown: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP33900.pdf
Q: My question for you is about roses. When are you supposed to cut them back?
A: You can cut back suckers and dead or diseased
canes anytime. 
True
pruning is done between December and January here in Northeast Florida.
Leave at least half the length of each main cane that is one to three
years old. Always cut just above a bud to avoid cane dieback. The
first flowers can be expected eight to nine weeks after pruning.
Grooming roses is a little more time consuming, but this process
keeps the plant blooming throughout the season. Grooming requires
removing faded flowers and preventing the rose plant from developing
seed, which is a waste of its energy. Any growth coming from the
rootstock should be broken off rather than pruned to discourage any
future growth from that area. The rootstock is generally a poor flower
producing plant but is used because of its ability to tolerate cold
or resist disease. Check out the University of Florida on-line publication
by Dr. McFadden and Dr. Black at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG036
Q: What is causing these big, black spots on the leaves of my roses?
A: This
disease is appropriately called “Black Leaf Spot.” 
It
is caused by a fungus, which can be especially troublesome
during wet weather. Since
we are currently experiencing drought conditions you might
ask how such a disease can be a problem. This
fungus is spread from leaf to leaf by water and wind and the
problem becomes compounded by over-head irrigation when leaves
stay wet for extended periods of time. Most
plants, including roses, prefer to be watered directly at the
root area. Not only
is this form of irrigation better for the plant it also has
other advantages. Those
advantages include reduction of loss of water through evaporation
and lower incidents of disease. Sanitation
methods such as removal of diseased plant material from around
the base of the plant will also be beneficial. Local garden
centers and nurseries sell many varieties of fungicides to
help manage this disease. Remember,
fungicides work best as protectants rather than a cure. Therefore,
apply fungicides on new plant growth to protect them from fungal
spores. Remember to
always read the label before applying any chemical to your
landscape. You will
need to combine your efforts by using chemicals as well as
changing your irrigation methods.
Spiderwort
Q: In past years I have just mowed these down pretty purple flowers. This year I have a small group of them in my yard and they are rather attractive. What is it and can it be transplanted into a group? It would be very inexpensive landscaping.
A: This spring I have received dozens of calls on this plant. It is interesting how some years the wildflowers are extremely showy and attract a great deal of attention? I appreciated the photo you sent me which made it very easy to identify. I believe your plant is probably the Common spiderwort, Tradescantia ohiensis. This plant is considered a wildflower by many people but it can be classified as a weed if located in the lawn. Common spiderwort is a perennial, which means it returns from season to season. It may die back during cold weather but returns during the warm spring temperatures. It is asily grown in well-drained, acid, sandy soil. Common spiderwort prefers full sun to part shade. It is very tolerant of part shade but it may produce fewer blooms under these conditions. These plants can be transferred from one site to another. They are propagated by division, similar to dividing lilies, and can be easily grown in groups. The stems may grow over 2 feet tall, but they should be cut back to 6-12" in mid-summer to encourage new growth and a possible fall bloom.
Spring Lady's Tresses
Q: I have seen flowers growing along side the road. They are sitting atop a stalk about 8-12 inches high. The flowers are very tiny and white. They spiral around the top of the stalk. What are they?
A: How observant of you! I have been seeing this
plant too on my walks around my home. I believe the wildflowers
you are describing are called Spring Lady’s Tresses, Spiranthes
vernalis. 
This plant is a terrestrial orchid and different
varieties of it appear in the spring, summer and fall. Some
nurseries will sell a close relative of the Spring Lady’s
Tresses which produces a pleasant fragrant. This orchid
is a monocot (for you Master Gardeners and science advocates)
which means it looks similar to plants in the grass family. It
can grow in a variety of site conditions but seems to prefer
sandy soil. Spring Lady’s Tresses can be found as
far west as Texas and north to Canada; all along the eastern
part of the United States. In Illinois, New Hampshire,
New York, and Pennsylvania this plant is listed by the U.S. federal
government as endangered. It is on the threatened list
for Iowa and Massachusetts and several states
have it listed as rare. This should remind us that even
the tiny, inconspicuous flowers are valuable.
Tulips
Q: How would I go about growing tulips here?
A: Unfortunately, many of the common bulbs of northern
states such as tulips, hyacinths, and some irises and lilies 
do not grow well in Florida. Very often these bulbs flower poorly
or not at all, even in northern Florida. However, with special
treatment many of these northern bulbs will grow and bloom the
first year. Recovering bulbs for planting the following year
is not recommended because the bulbs rarely flower again. Bulbs
require chilling for about 60 days at 40°F and 120 days at
50°F. Bulbs chilled in a refrigerator with ripening fruit
may fail to bloom. The gas (ethylene) produced by ripening fruit
can cause the flower buds to abort. Plant bulbs immediately upon
removal from cold storage. Discard bulbs after blooming and plant
new ones each year. There are plenty of other perennial
flowering choices that would bring you much more pleasure year
after year. Consider lilies such as cannas, crinum or calla. Try
your hand at Dahlia, Watsonia, or Sternbergia. The University
of Florida/IFAS publication below will give you more specific
information on selection and general care of bulbs for Northeast
Florida. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG029
Turks Turban
Q: I have attached a picture of a plant that is thriving on Sapelo Island. It is about 5' tall and the flowers are waxy. It is really putting on a show now. Do you have any idea what it could be? I can't find it in any book.
A: Thank you for sending the photos of this plant.
I was not familiar with it so I contacted the University of Florida
Herbarium to assist me.
They
quickly identified it as Clerodendrum indicum (L.) Kuntze,
commonly referred to as skyrocket or turk's turban, in the Lamiaceae
(mint family). Do not confuse this plant with other Clerodendrums
(such as bleeding heart) or the squash variety often called turk’s
turban. Clerodendrum indicum (L.) Kuntze escaped from the
East Indies and became naturalized in Florida and 5 other southern
states. It is now found in South America and even as far away as
Hawaii. In some areas it is classified as a Category 2 invasive,
which means you are encouraged to dig it up and remove it whenever
possible. Therefore we would not encourage you to propagate it although
it easily propagates by seed or rhizome. Clerodendrum indicum (L.)
Kuntze is found in disturbed uplands or rockland hammocks generally
in full sun but it can grow in partial shade too. It produces white
flowers in the summer. The red petal-like structures you see during
late summer and fall are actually called calyxes. Calyx is the term
used for a group of sepals. Sepals are the green structures that
protect a flower bud prior to opening.
Vinca
Q: My vinca plants are not doing well. Will you test the soil pH for me?
A: I did test the soil and the pH measured approximately
7.2. 
It was slightly higher (or more alkaline) than most
plants prefer, which is somewhere in the range of 6.0 – 6.5. Most
vinca varieties tolerate a wide range of soil types and pH. Vinca
are incredibly hardy and many are somewhat “weedy.” I
planted one seed packet 3 years ago with no irrigation and no
fertilizer and they are still showing up all over my yard! Therefore,
I felt something else must be causing the plants to perform poorly. After
further discussion, I concluded you might be over-watering these
hardy plants. Although we are in a drought situation, irrigating
most plants more than once a week is too much. Vegetables
are an exception to this general irrigation suggestion. Your
plants appeared to have a root rot. Cut back irrigation
and remove any dead or dying plants immediately. Use pine
product mulch to help conserve water, lower pH and keep temperatures
consistent around the root area.