'Prairie Lace' Crape
Myrtle
Lagerstroemia indica 'Prairie Lace'
Common Name:
Prairie Lace Crapemyrtle
Scientific Name:
Lagerstroemia indica 'Prairie Lace'
Type: Deciduous shrub
Size: 4-6' +
Habit: Upright. Semi-compact shrub
Flowers:
- Pannicles 4-12" Medium pink banded with white on outer margin. ||
- Flowers mid June- late Sept. ||
Leaves:
- Thicker than species ||
- Emerge wine red in Spring ||
- Fall color red-red orange ||
- Mildew resistant-- supposedly ||
Culture:
- Full sun, well-drained soil, drought tolerant ||
- Prune in early Spring as buds break ||
Use: Specimen, Accent, Summer color
Crepe Myrtle in Florida
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia species) has become a dominant landscape
plant in north and central Florida and throughout the South.
Breeding programs over the last 30 years have produced superior
forms with a wide range of plant sizes and habits, improved
flowering, new flower colors, ornamental bark, ornamental foliage,
disease resistance and increased vigor. Its remarkable success
as a landscape plant is largely due to the widespread usage
of hybrid L. indica x fauriei cultivars.
History and Taxonomy
Lagerstroemia species are deciduous shrubs or trees with geographic
origins in China, Japan, and other parts of southeast Asia.
L. indica has been cultivated as an ornamental for centuries
and was introduced to the southern United States over one hundred
and fifty years ago. L. speciosa, commonly called Queen's Crape
Myrtle, has been popular as a flowering street tree in tropical
areas, including south Florida. L. fauriei, L. subcostata and
L. limii have been used in breeding programs, and cultivars
of L. indica x fauriei hybrids now constitute the most widely
grown crape myrtles today. Other species of Lagerstroemia are
used as timber in their native ranges in Asia.
The scientific name, Lagerstroemia, was coined in 1759 by Carl
Linnaeus, who described and named the plant in honor of Magnus
von Lagerstroem, an avid naturalist and director of the Swedish
East Indies Company. Crape myrtle derives its common name from
its crepe-like, crinkled petals, and the resemblance of its leaves
to the true myrtle, Myrtus communis. "Crape myrtle" is
a peculiarly-American term. Elsewhere in the world, "lagerstroemia" is
often used as the common name for crape myrtle.
Characteristics
Crape myrtle is valued as a landscape plant for its prolific summer
flowers, heat and drought tolerance, and year-round landscape
interest. Flowering begins as early as May in some cultivars
and continues into the fall. Each 6- to 18-inch cluster of
flowers (or panicle) develops on the tips of new growth and
is composed of hundreds of 1-to 2-inch flowers. Color ranges
include shades of purple, lavender, white, pink and red, including “true” red,
a relatively recent development. Some cultivars have bicolor
flowers (two colors on each petal), some cultivars have flower
colors that fade with age or certain environmental conditions,
and other cultivars have panicles composed of a mix of flower
colors.
Many Lagerstroemia fauriei and hybrid cultivars feature beautiful,
colorful bark. Strips of bark peel off in early summer to reveal
mottled new bark ranging in color from pale cream to dark cinnamon
to rich brown to bright orange. The bark color gradually fades
over winter until it peels again the next summer. Leaves on many
of the Lagerstroemia indica cultivars are rounded or spoon-shaped
and up to 3 inches long. Most hybrid cultivars have lance-shaped
leaves up to 5 inches long and 3 inches wide while other species
have even larger leaves. Leaves are often tinged red in the spring
and turn dark green by summer. Several cultivars are known for
new growth that is bronze, red or burgundy and some cultivars are
claimed to have burgundy-colored foliage all summer. In north Florida
and northwards, foliage may turn brilliant yellow, orange or red
in autumn. When the leaves fall in winter, crape myrtle becomes
a living sculpture. The trunk and branches of tree-form plants
have an attractively gnarled, sinuous character with smooth bark.
Landscape Use
Crape myrtle is one of our most versatile landscape plants for
sunny locations. They are available for use as medium trees,
small trees, shrubs, groundcovers, container plants, large
perennial bedding plants and hanging baskets. However, the
most commonly available cultivars are best used as small trees
in Florida. For best results and minimum maintenance, choose
a cultivar whose growth characteristics and ultimate size fit
your intended landscape use. Misplacement of a shrub- or tree-like
crape myrtle will require you to prune it constantly to keep
it from outgrowing its place. Single- or multi-stemmed tree-form
crape myrtles are ideal as flowering specimen trees or as small,
flowering shade trees near patios, walkways, and entrances.
Shrub forms make an excellent accent in a shrub border when
planted in groups. Dwarf plants are effective as large groundcovers,
perennial bedding plants, or container plants providing vivid,
summer-flowering interest. Some dwarf crape myrtles are used
in hanging baskets. Background plantings of evergreens emphasize
the floral display of crape myrtles. Dark colored mulches or
dark green groundcovers highlight the ornamental characteristics
of crape myrtle trunks and bark.
General Culture
Crape myrtle is adapted to climatic conditions throughout Florida.
Well-established plants are extremely drought tolerant and
have low fertility requirements, although they respond to fertilizer
and water with lush growth. Crape myrtle has low salt tolerance,
so it should not be irrigated with saline water or used near
the coast unless it is well-protected from saline conditions.
Full sun is necessary for best flowering and for development
of a full, symmetrical crown. Crape myrtle is tolerant of a
wide range of soil types but grows poorly in wet soils. It
is best adapted to loamy soils that are slightly acid (pH 5.0
to 6.5). Species and cultivars susceptible to powdery mildew
should be placed in locations that allow air movement to help
avoid potential problems with this unsightly disease.
Crape myrtle transplants easily. Best results occur if container-grown
crape myrtles are planted during early summer when in active growth.
Bare root or balled-and-burlapped crape myrtles should be moved
and planted while dormant. Plants should be mulched to a depth
of 3 inches. Newly planted crape myrtle should be irrigated regularly
for the first few weeks to aid in establishment. Trees with a trunk
diameter greater than 1 inch benefit from regular irrigation for
several months. Crape myrtle is very drought tolerant once established
but moist soil or irrigation promotes growth. Fertilization will
stimulate growth of young crape myrtles but established crape myrtles
usually do not need fertilizer because root systems extend into
lawns where they can absorb nutrients from applications of lawn
fertilizers.
Young crape myrtles characteristically develop multiple stems.
If a crape myrtle is to be grown as a small tree, the smallest
stems should be removed,leaving one main stem for a single-trunk
specimen or 3 to 5 main stems for a multi-trunked tree. Crape myrtle
generally requires little pruning. "Suckers" or
water sprouts may develop along the lower portions of main stems
or from roots. These should be removed when using crape myrtles
as trees. Small twiggy growth on disease-susceptible shrub and
tree forms should be thinned out from underneath and within the
canopy. This keeps the trunk clean to allow air circulation and
help prevent powdery mildew disease. Dwarf crape myrtles periodically
grow tall shoots that must be removed to maintain the planting
as a groundcover. Shoots of some dwarf cultivars occasionally die
to the ground over winter, and dead wood should be removed in the
spring. If pruning is necessary to improve plant shape or form,
prune crape myrtle anytime after the leaves have fallen. However
if plants are pruned too early in the fall, new growth may emerge
and be killed by the first freeze. Plants are easy to prune while
dormant since the branch structure is readily visible without foliage.
Pruning while plants are dormant also will not interfere with flower
bud formation since crape myrtle flowers form on new growth. Avoid
annual or frequent hard pruning. Severe pruning can induce excess
vegetative growth, basal sprouting, and fewer, but larger, flower
panicles. It also spoils the beautiful winter branch structure
on crape myrtle trees. Tip pruning to remove old flower clusters
will promote recurrent blooming but is not practical for large
plants or low maintenance landscapes. Tip pruning is largely unnecessary
on many newer cultivars that naturally repeat-bloom, but tip pruning
may enhance recurrent bloom of older L. indica cultivars.
Pests
Crape myrtle can be one of the most pest-free landscape plants
with proper cultivar selection and with proper siting. Primary
pests in Florida are powdery mildew and the crape myrtle aphid
with its associated sooty mold.
Powdery mildew is caused by the fungus Erysiphe lagerstroemiae.
It first appears on new shoots as a whitish powder that later spreads
to the surface of leaves, stems, and flowers (a black powder on
leaves is caused by sooty mold; see the section on "crapemyrtle
aphid"). Powdery mildew causes leaves, stems and flowers to
become distorted and stunted. In severe cases, leaves may drop
prematurely and flower buds may fail to open properly. Shady, humid
locations and cool nights encourage powdery mildew as does frequent
wetting of the foliage by irrigation or rainfall. Powdery mildew
is more prevalent in spring and fall.
The best way to avoid powdery mildew is to plant one of the cultivars
bred and selected for resistance to powdery mildew. Additionally,
crape myrtle should be planted in sunny locations allowing free
air movement so that wet foliage dries quickly.
Crapemyrtle aphid, Tinocallis kahawaluokalani, was apparently introduced
into the United States with crape myrtle, its host plant. Crapemyrtle
aphids are pale yellow in color with winged adults having black
wings and black protuberances. They primarily are found on undersides
of leaves and are particularly attracted to new growth. Crapemyrtle
aphid is not found on any other commonly grown plant. No aphid
species other than crapemyrtle aphid infest crape myrtle. These
insects damage crape myrtle by inserting mouthparts into soft tissue
and extracting plant sap. Crapemyrtle aphids can reproduce and
develop large numbers rapidly. Heavy infestations distort leaves
and stunt new growth.
In north Florida, crapemyrtle aphid populations generally peak
between late June and early August. Crape myrtles should be inspected
regularly during this period to monitor populations of aphids.
Aphid populations can probably be managed if control measures begin
by the first week of July. Elsewhere in Florida, one or more population
peaks may occur at any time between May and September. Although
many predatory insects feed on crapemyrtle aphids, they usually
cannot control the aphids. Sprays of insecticidal soaps or horticultural
oils are the most environmentally safe pesticides for controlling
crapemyrtle aphids.
During feeding, aphids secrete droplets of a sugary solution called "honeydew." Drops
of honeydew fall from the aphids onto leaves and stems below. This
sugary solution promotes the growth of sooty mold fungi, Capnodium
species. Sooty mold appears as a black staining or powdery coating
on leaves and stems (a whitish powder on leaves is symptomatic
of powdery mildew; see "powdery mildew"). The blackened
leaves and stems are often the most obvious sign of aphid infestation.
Although unsightly, sooty mold itself does not directly harm crape
myrtle. However, the black fungus shades the leaves and interferes
with photosynthesis, potentially reducing the long-term vigor of
the plant. Control of crapemyrtle aphid will halt further development
of sooty mold. Existing sooty mold on leaves will wear off the
leaves through the actions of sun, rain, and wind. Sprays of insecticidal
soaps and horticultural oils for control of crapemyrtle aphid also
help to loosen and remove sooty mold. Secondary pests of crape
myrtle include metallic flea beetle (Altica species), Florida wax
scale (Ceroplastes floridensis), Cercospora leafspot (Cercospora
lythracearum) and mushroom root rot (Armillaria tabescens).
Propagation
Crape myrtle can be propagated vegetatively by softwood, semi-hardwood,
hardwood, or root cuttings. Softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings
root easily when taken in spring or summer. Hardwood cuttings
from dormant plants also root easily, although use of rooting
hormone improves rooting percentages. Root cuttings may be
dug in early spring and planted in the greenhouse. Root cuttings
root inconsistently. Seed capsules ripening in the fall may
be collected, dried, and stored in sealed containers. No seed
pre-treatment is necessary and seeds will germinate within
3 weeks after sowing. Best growth results when seeds are sown
during the lengthening days of spring. Flower, bark and growth
characteristics of crape myrtle seedlings vary tremendously.
Cultivars
Many cultivars of crape myrtle have been developed by private individuals,
nurseries and public institutions. In 1962, the U.S. National
Arboretum in Washington D.C. began a crape myrtle breeding
project with Lagerstroemia indica. Major advances occurred
when L. subcostata and L. fauriei were introduced into the
breeding program in 1966. The resulting hybrids were highly
ornamental and resistant to powdery mildew. As a result of
the late Dr. Donald Egolf's efforts, the U.S. National Arboretum
has released over 24 selected for cold hardiness, for resistance
to powdery mildew, and for varying heights, habits, flower
colors, fall foliage colors, and bark characteristics. All
U.S. National Arboretum cultivars have Native American names.
The U.S. National Arboretum is continuing Dr. Egolf's work,
and many other individuals also have joined the ranks of crape
myrtle breeders. Dr. Carl Whitcomb, Dr. Michael Dirr and Dr.
Cecil Pounders currently operate prominent crape myrtle breeding
programs. Evaluations of these and other cultivars are under
way at the University of Florida/IFAS North Florida Research
and Education Center in Quincy to determine the best cultivars
for Florida conditions.
by Gary W. Knox
Printable
Word Document
Printable
PDF Document



