Weeds of Turf
Homeowners cultural practices:
Feeding
- Look for fertilizer products with slow-release sources of nitrogen
- Wait until danger of frost has passed before you apply fertilizer in the spring.
- Look for a fertilizer with a low phosphorus level (the second number on the bag) and a high potassium level (the third number on the bag) such as a 15-2-15 or something similar.
Mowing
- Never remove more than one third of the leaf blade at any one time
- Mow at the highest height for your grass species. For St. Augustinegrass and bahiagrass, this is 3.5 to 4 inches
- Leave grass clippings on the ground - they do not contribute to thatch and return fertility back to the lawn
- Keep your mower blades sharp
- Don't mow your lawn when it's wet - this is dangerous for you, tough on the mower, and bad for the grass.
- If you miss a weekly mowing, raise the mower height so you don't remove too much tissue.
Irrigation
- Irrigate less frequently but for longer periods each time.
- Turn your automatic sprinkler system off. Irrigate your lawn as needed.
- Apply 1/2 to 3/4 inches of water when you do irrigate.
- Irrigate every two to three weeks during the winter months, even if your grass is dormant.
- Irrigate around sunrise to fully allow leaf blades to dry out during the day.
Weeds
- For pre-emergence crabgrass control, look for a product containing pendimethalin . Apply the first of March.
- Remember that the label is the law and that the directions must be followed!
- For St. Augustine grass lawns, use atrazine to control many broadleaf weeds. Do not apply when temperatures are high (greater than 85°), as it may injure the grass.
- Control yellow nutsedge with bentazon.
- Control purple nutsedge with holosulfuron or imazaquin.
