Flowers
African Bush Daisy
Q: I have some bush daisy plants and right now they are looking pretty sad. Can I prune them now?
A: Several people have called me in the last two weeks asking about pruning various 
perennials, shrubs and trees. Many people, like you, have said the plants look poorly this time of year and they want to prune them down to the ground. As a general rule, dead limbs can be removed from trees and shrubs any time of year. Ideally, it is best to prune plants just after they have finished blooming or fruiting but most perennials require little or no formal pruning. For instance, azaleas should be pruned in the late spring or early summer just after they have finished flowering. Pruning now would cause them to lose buds for flowering next year. Your African Bush Daisy would survive severe pruning now but if we experience unseasonably warm weather your plant would be fooled into thinking it should put out new growth. This new growth would be vulnerable if temperatures drop suddenly, which is very probable. The new growth would freeze and damage the plant. It is best to take a “grin and bear it” attitude with perennials for now. Refrain from pruning them until we are certain the threat of frost is over. I know your next question will be regarding the exact date. Well, we need to be somewhat flexible. Most experts agree the threat of frost is over in Northeast Florida sometime in middle March or the beginning of April. I know it is difficult to see the landscape looking so poorly but it will not take long before things will be green and blooming. So, think about setting aside your pruning shears this time of year – have them sharpened instead.
Amaryllis
Q: My neighbor gave me some gorgeous pink and white amaryllis for Christmas. She told me they could be planted in the yard. How do I take care of these beautiful plants?
A: The following information was gleaned from a University of Florida/IFAS publication titled, “Amaryllis” by Dr. Sydney Brown and Dr. Robert Black. The complete document web link is attached below. Amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the ground anytime between September and January. Amaryllis plants do best in light or dappled shade. In heavy shade, they will be thin, spindly and flower poorly. These plants require well-drained soils amended with organic matter or compost. Use slow-release forms of fertilizer to minimize leaching of nutrients into water resources. Apply 2-3 light applications of fertilizer during growing season, which is March through September. Plant the bulbs 12 to 15 inches apart with the neck of the bulb protruding above the ground. Water newly planted amaryllis and keep them moist but not waterlogged until the plants are well-established. The bulbs may be left in the ground for several years or dug and reset every September or October. It is not necessary to dig, separate, and replant each year, but doing so will encourage uniform flowering and larger blooms. Digging also provides an opportunity to discard unhealthy bulbs, to remove young offsets (bulblets) and to amend the bed with organic matter. Control weeds by spreading a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bed at planting time and remove any that appear. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP060
Beggarticks
Q: What are the white wildflowers growing along the
roadside all around town? They look like small daisies.
A : You are probably referring to the White Beggar-ticks (Bidens alba) plant. Beggar-tick is not a very flattering name for such a sweet looking flower but it was named because the seed contains barbs. The barbs give the seed the ability to attach to animal fur or clothing which in turn allows the plant to propagate in other areas. This propagation ability explains why you see it all over the roadside areas. Beggar-ticks are found throughout Florida and bloom from the summer through fall in North Florida.
Black-eyed Susan
Q: What
are the beautiful yellow flowers growing along the roadside? 
A: The wildflowers you are referring to are probably Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, or Florida Tickweed. Florida tickweed is not a very attractive name for such a lovely flower but the word tickweed is given to any number of daisy-like flowers common to North America. This plant is found abundantly throughout the United States except Nevada and New Mexico. Its normal habitat is open woods, fields, and roadsides. Rudbeckia can tolerate a variety of soil conditions and is moderately drought tolerant. This plant prefers full sun but can tolerate some light shade which is the reason you may find it along the forest edge. Rudbeckia is a favorite nectar plant of many of our local butterflies. Some species are annual while others are biennial or perennial. The golden yellow-orange flower is about 3 inches across and the plant can grow over 3 feet tall. If you want to propagate from seed, be sure to keep them high enough in the soil to allow them light exposure as they can only germinate in the light. Please go to the Florida Wildflower Council website listed below where you will be able to look at a variety of Florida wildflowers. Many of these flowers are easy to propagate and grow well in our sandy soils. They provide food for wildlife and of course they are beautiful. http://floridawildflowercouncil.org/species_information.htm
Black-eyed Susan vine
Q: My
has seemingly betrayed me this year - I
have grown this plant successfully both North and South (Amelia
Island), with flowering from late/spring, early summer through
the fall; this year I have the orange-yellow with the dark center
(probably one of the hybrids?). 
After
a good, but not profuse bloom this spring, I have had no blooms. I
am growing four plants that I have trained up a water oak, each
at a "compass corner", each with its own planter; plant
has now reached over 8 feet on all sides of the tree. They
get partial shade until about 10, sun from 10 to about 2, partial
shade thereafter. I have fertilized with miracle grow as
well as, alternately, osmocote with some milorganite ( 6-2-0)
occasionally; other than the small amount of nitrogen in the
milorganite, I've used fertilizer intended for flowering plants. Any
idea why I'm getting no flowers?
A: Regarding the blooming of Thunbergia Alata also called Black-eyed Susan or Clock vine; you may have two contributing factors limiting the amount of blooms. It may need more direct sunlight and it may be receiving too much nitrogen. Eliminate the fertilizer, which may be increasing the production of foliage but at the expense of blooms. The increased number of blooms in the spring may have been the result of the trees having less dense foliage. This plant thrives in direct sunlight therefore may continue to climb in order to obtain the desired sunlight. If possible transplant it in an area where it can receive the maximum sunlight and reduce the amount of fertilizer next year. Perhaps an arbor would work better? One additional note, it prefers loose, well-drained soil but likes the soil to remain slightly moist.
Bulbs
Q: Can I dip my bulbs in fungicide to prevent them from getting diseased?
A: The best way to prevent the occurrence of bulb rots is to make the sure the planting site is prepared so it will be well drained. Avoid planting in areas that are poorly drained or that collect water. You can dip them in a fungicide however if your site is too wet the bulbs are ill fated and will succumb to disease. Plant at the proper depth, encourage good air circulation, and manage water needs. Plants that are growing vigorously are best able to resist diseases. T o minimize convenient entry points for pathogens, take care to avoid wounding when handling bulbs. Buy from a reputable source and examine bulbs for any bruises or other damage. Fungal microorganisms often gain entrance through wounds created by insects or improper handling of the bulbs. Extended periods of wet weather favor infection. Diagnosis of below-ground problems involves hands-on investigation. Symptomatic plants need to be dug and examined. Diseased bulbs usually are discolored, soft, and may emit a foul odor. In some cases, there may be a black or bluish mold on the bulbs. Diseased bulbs should be discarded, along with some of the surrounding soil. One other option would be to plant Louisiana Iris or Chinese Orchid which tolerate wet feet.
Q: Do I need to dig up my caladiums every year to keep them alive?
A: Caladiums need high organic, acid soils with consistent moisture but not too wet or soggy.
Most of them do not like temperatures lower than the mid sixties. Therefore, it might work best to dig them up from the soil if you plan to keep them in the same site from year to year. Any diseased or damaged tubers should be destroyed. Healthy tubers should be cleaned of soil, dried and placed in a well ventilated area where temperatures will remain between 70°F and 90°F. Under these conditions, the tubers may sprout new leaves but they should not be planted outside until the outdoor soil temperature remains consistently above 65°F. Some gardeners in Northeast Florida treat caladiums as annuals and replace them from year to year. Other gardeners have been successful at leaving the tubers in the ground but covering them with mulch to keep them warm during cooler times. Those living along the coast of Florida may have good success leaving caladiums in the ground under certain conditions such as protected, shady sites. If you really love the variety caladiums can give you, consider growing them in containers. This will make it easier to bring them inside from the cold during winter months. I have given you a lot of options; try any combination of these to determine what works best for you. The most updated information regarding caladiums from UF/IFAS is found in the publication “Caladiums as Potted and Landscaped Plants”, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg278.
Clematis
Q: I have a vine in my yard that has very feathery seed heads. Do you have any idea what the plant might be called?
A: I am so glad you brought me some samples of this plant. The
seeds are from the clematis vine
and the seed heads are very attractive
even though the vine is dead and no flower is present. Clematis
vines are among the most decorative and spectacular of flowering
vines. They are a varied group of mostly woody, deciduous vines,
though Clematis armandii is evergreen. There is great variety
in flower form, color, bloom season, foliage effect and plant height.The
old saying about clematis growth is, "The first year they sleep,
the second year they creep and the third year they leap." Growth
may seem slow as the plant builds its root system, but once established,
clematis are strong growers. Avoid planting in extremely wet locations
as they can be prone to root rots. The site should be open enough
to allow for air movement around the plants, but protection from
strong winds is also desirable. Provide support for the vine but
it should not be grown directly against the home. Irrigate vines
deeply once a week during dry seasons. Vines need at least an inch
of water a week either from rain or irrigation. Renew mulch to a
2-inch depth in late spring after the soil has warmed unless a groundcover
or other method is used to cool the root environment. Work a good
general fertilizer gently into the soil surface in spring. Do not
feed clematis during flowering. In the autumn, a mulch of well-rotted
manure or compost will be beneficial.
Clivia
Q: What can you tell me about the Kaffir lily?
A: This lily is better names Clivia, Clivia minata. It
is a true bulb and can be planted any time of 
year just below soil
surface. If planted too deeply it may never bloom or reach
its full potential. The bulbs should be placed about 9-12 inches
apart in rich, organic soil. It tolerates a wide pH soil range
but does not like the soil too moist. The orange to scarlet
colored flowers are produced in clusters, similar to amaryllis. It
will bloom more freely if slightly confined so growing it in a container
will work well. This plant is considered a tender perennial
in our zone 8b-9a but it has been grown here with a good deal of
success. This bulb is often difficult to find but is common
in older homes. In northern areas, it is better to use Clivia
as a houseplant.
Daffodils
Q: When should I plant daffodil bulbs? I am
having difficulty finding them this time of year and I suspect
it may be the wrong time to plant them.
A: Your instinct is correct. Daffodil bulbs should be planted in the fall of the year (around November) to ensure they will bloom in the early spring.I checked out the American Society of Daffodils for specific information. They like moist, well drained organic soil in a sunny location. However, they don't like wet feet so avoid the tendency to over water. Slightly acidic soil is best, so you might add soil sulfur if you have alkaline soil. Plant your daffodils so that their top (pointed end) is at least two times as deep as the bulb is high (top of a 2" bulb is 4" deep). Exactness isn't crucial; they'll adjust. Bulbs should be planted deeper in sandy soil than in clay soil. Top-dress again with 5-10-10 when the leaf-tips emerge. As they flower, top-dress with 0-10-10 or 0-0-50. High-nitrogen fertilizer should be avoided.Daffodils need lots of water while they are growing. Water immediately after planting and keep them moist until the rains come. Continue watering for three weeks or so after blooming time; then stop watering. The bulbs make their next year's bloom after flowering. (Your first-year bloom is largely due to the previous grower of the bulb.) You may leave daffodils down in the ground for between 3 to 5 years. If blooming does not happen one season, it would be best to move them to a new location.
Goldenrod
Q: I live in an area surrounded by wildflowers and I have noticed the goldenrod is blooming. Some people say the goldenrod causes my allergies but others say it is pollen from another plant. I don’t want to remove my wildflowers unless it is totally necessary. What do you think?
A: You are not alone in having allergy reactions
this time of year, thousands of people experience some form of
allergic reaction in the fall. Hay fever is a commonly used term
for pollen allergy, a type of seasonal allergic rhinitis (nasal
irritation or inflammation). 
Pollen
grains can be dispersed into the air in all year long depending
on the type of tree, grass, weeds and/or weather conditions. Ragweed
is a common cause of pollen allergy reactions in the fall. In Northeast
Florida, ragweed often grows along the same sites as goldenrod.
Since goldenrod puts out a showy yellow flower people assume it
is to blame for the allergic reaction when ragweed is actually
the culprit. Plain-looking trees, grasses and weeds, which do not
have showy flowers, produce the types of pollen that most commonly
cause allergic reactions. These plants manufacture small, light,
dry pollen granules that are custom-made for wind transport. Although
most allergenic pollen comes from plants that produce it in huge
quantities, it's the chemical makeup of the pollen that determines
whether it is likely to cause hay fever. I checked the National
Allergy Bureau for the pollen count in our area, which was done
in Ocala last week, and the pollen count from weeds and grass registered
as “high severity”. Many of our local news media now
discuss the pollen counts during their weather reports so check
those out if you know you have specific problems. The National
Allergy Bureau monitors pollen counts in many locations throughout
the United States and you can call them at 1-800-9-POLLEN for pollen
counts. Generally, pollen is most abundant in the early morning,
especially between 5:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. so if you exercise
outdoors you might consider changing to an afternoon or evening
time. Rain can wash pollen out of the air for a time, and some
plants may not pollinate in damp weather. (This information was
adapted from the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases).
Hibiscus
Q: I have two, three year old hibiscus plants. They are in full sun with a southern exposure. The foliage is dark green and very healthy. I fertilize about once a month with azalea fertilizer. The plants produce buds but no blooms. They fall off before opening. Do you have the solution?
A: You have placed your plants in the best area as full
sun
and southern
exposure are perfect for growing hibiscus. There are several
possible reasons for bud drop on hibiscus. Fertilizing every
month is a bit excessive, 4 times a year is generally considered
very generous. Excessive fertilizer will cause the plant to
put out lush foliage often at the expense of blooms. Stop
the fertilizing until next spring. Water fluctuations (too
much or too little) can cause bud drop and we have certainly seen
plenty of rain. Check the soil, hibiscus like moist well-drained
soil but not wet soil. Most varieties of hibiscus prefer
temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees and fluctuations above or
below the optimum temperatures can cause bud drop. In addition,
some varieties are especially susceptible to bud drop if environmental
conditions are not perfect - the result of extensive hybridization. I
hope this helps.
Q: I had a beautiful blooming hibiscus plant that froze last year but came back once the weather became warm. It has large green leaves but no blooms. What could be wrong?
A: Tell me a little more about your hibiscus. What
are your watering and fertilizing practices? Since the hibiscus
returned full of leaves, it should have produced blooms for you. One
possible answer could stem from over fertilization. Many of
us have a tendency to over fertilize hoping to produce more blooms
than usual but some of our plants outsmart us by putting that additional
energy into leaf production rather than blooms. If that scenario
applies to your hibiscus consider cutting back on fertilizing except
in the spring and hopefully by next year you will see more blooms. This
is a good example of when less it more!Nematodes, nutritional deficiencies,
over fertilization, and environmental factors such as poor drainage
and excessive water, drought, or salt spray can cause flower buds
to drop. Flowers are produced most of the year in
Q: When would be a good time for me to prune my Confederate Rose?
A: We would suggest you prune hibiscus trees and perennial plants when the threat of frost is over. When is the threat over? Well, that is debatable so I am going to be vague. The threat of frost should be over sometime between the middle of March and the first week in April. Shrubs such as azaleas are the exception to that rule as they should be pruned directly after flowering is over. The Confederate Rose, Hibiscus mutabili, or Dixie Rose responds best to minimal amounts of pruning. It requires very little care and adapts to most soil and light conditions. These plants demonstrate insect and disease problems associated with high nitrogen applications and too much water. Ideally, they should be planted alone where they will receive adequate light and air circulation.
Hollyhock
Q: Can I grow hollyhock here in North Florida?
A: Hollyhock, Althaea rose, can indeed be grown here as an annual or perennial. 
Many garden enthusiasts love to start hollyhocks from seed but they are also a good choice for beginning gardeners. They should be planted in a bright, sunny site. Planting dates are from the last threat of frost through June. They should be removed at the first sign of frost. The blooms come in a wide of colors so pick you favorite or choose a number of complementary colors for your summer and fall garden. If you garden is small consider selecting one of the varieties that grows only two – three feet tall. Some hollyhock plants reach heights of up to seven feet which would be a poor choice for small plots. Other possible plant selections are listed in the UF/IFAS publication titled, “Bedding Plants: Selection, Establishment, and Maintenance”, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG319. You will notice the table is divided into three sections, North, Central and South Florida. When examining the table of plants listed, be sure to choose only those suitable for the North Florida area.
Hydrangea
Q: Can I prune my hydrangea now?
A: Pruning
hydrangea, Hydrangea
macrophyllathe
ones 
with the large globe-shaped flowers would be a mistake
this time of year. It will
result in fewer if any flowers next May or June. Pruning
can be accomplished at two different times. Late summer is more
desirable, since most of these hydrangea types flower only from
the end buds of upright or lateral shoots produced during late
summer and fall of the previous season. Prune as soon as the flowers
have faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts
of the stems and crown. Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots
that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of
old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems
that will flower the following season. Flower color is dependent
upon the pH of the soil in which it is grown: blue if acid; pink
if alkaline. There are also several white flowered cultivars.
Q: I have always heard that the old fashioned mop-head hydrangeas bloom on old wood. I love them in the house. Does that mean that each time I cut a blossom this year, I am robbing next year's bloom?
A: This pruning information comes from Connell
University Extension: 
"Pruning
can be accomplished at two different times. Late summer is more
desirable, since most hydrangea flower only from the end buds
of upright or lateral shoots produced during late summer and
fall of the previous season. Prune as soon as the flowers have
faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts of
the stems and crown. Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots
that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of
old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems
that will flower the following season. Early spring pruning (March),
although acceptable, will result in the sacrificing of bloom
for that growing season. Pruning this species too late in the
fall (after September) is harmful. New growth, both vegetative
and reproductive, will not develop proper maturity."
Q: This year, we noticed that one of the hydrangeas was not fully blooming, and then my hubby noticed mites/aphids underneath the leaves. Some of the leaves at the very ends look almost burnt or fried and the hydrangea looks so unhealthy. We have sprayed all hydrangeas with horticulture soap on days when we know that it will not rain. The other 7 are blooming but through-out each one, you can see random leaves that are burnt or fried at the ends also. We hope it will not infect the others as much. Thanking you in advance of your information.
A: I am not certain but I suspect you have a blight called Botrytis Blight which often causes the blooms to die before they open. Botrytis blight is a fungus that can affect leaves, stems, crowns, flowers, flower buds, seeds, seedlings, bulbs, and just about any other part of a plant with the exception of the roots. This disease is especially prevalent during warm, wet seasons (similar to what we have been experiencing). The plants may be too close together; therefore you might consider moving them during their dormant season (late winter or early spring) to allow for better air circulation. Avoid watering late in the day, morning hours are best. Avoid overhead irrigation on any of your ornamentals; it only increases the chance of spreading disease. Hydrangea prefers a moist, but not wet, organic rich soil. However, it is important to remove leaf debris as soon as it occurs. You may prune a few inches below the dead area, but use sterile methods (clean your pruning shears with a weak bleach solution or alcohol between each cutting). Destroy any of the diseased pruned plant parts immediately. The cultural methods listed previously will help curb the disease, but ethylene bisdithiocarbamate by be applied if you feel it is necessary to spray a chemical. In addition, you can continue to apply insecticidal soap and/or horticulture oil to control the aphids.
Larkspur
Q: What can you tell me about larkspur?
A: Larkspur or delphinium is grown as an annual
here in Northeast Florida, 
but in northern and western parts of the U.S. it can be a perennial.
It can easily be propagated by seed and is often available as a beautiful
plant in the spring. Check your favorite seed catalog company for
potential favorites. Just remember to re-order each fall. What makes
this plant so exceptional is the bloom color is a true blue, which
is rare in the plant kingdom. However, the color of the bloom is
not limited to blue, other colors such as yellow, pink and white
also occur. Each seed produces a tall stalk reaching heights averaging
2-3 feet, although a few can grow to 6 feet! Larkspurs prefer cool
weather therefore it germinates in the winter here and blooms in
the early spring. Larkspurs are unable to handle our hot, humid summers
and they will die back once the temperatures get too warm. This plant
also makes a wonderful cut flower, just be sure to clip it just prior
to peak blooming. One additional note: delphiniums are poisonous
to humans and some animals if eaten so be sure to keep the family
pet out of the flower bed if they are prone to tasting the landscape.
Mandevilla
Q: My Mandevilla has died and I was wondering what would cause it.
A: Known for its showy flowers, the genus Mandevilla
includes
plants that were formerly called Dipladenia. This plant
grows well on a trellis and is sometimes referred to as Allamanda.
There are about 100 species of this tropical American woody vine
and most species survive the winter only in the tropical South because
its hardiness zone is 10-11. Mandevilla will show signs of freeze
damage when temperatures drop below 45 degrees. Because of it being
sensitive to cooler temperatures, it is often classified in our area
as an annual if planted outside. Remember, in Nassau County we are
either 9a, which is on the east coast or 8b, which is on the west
side of the county. Mandevilla requires full sun and well drained
soils, which means too much water, can create root problems. If you
love this plant, you may consider placing it in a hanging basket
so it can easily be transported indoors when the temperatures drop
too low. The cultivar “Red Riding Hood” produces red
flowers, “Summer Snow” flowers are white, “Pink
Allamanda” flowers pink, and the cultivar “Yellow” has
yellow flowers. If you keep it indoors it has a tendency to get mealy
bugs and scale, so be watchful. Keep insecticidal soap and horticulture
oil on hand to help control those troublesome pests.
Mexican Petunia
Q: I would like to know when to prune my Mexican Petunia so it will produce more flowers.
A: Mexican
Petunia, Ruellia brittoniana, also
called Britton’s wild petunia is classified as an invasive
for
<
Florida according to the Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/ruebri.html). It
is sold in nurseries everywhere but it easily escapes into wildlife
areas and therefore is not the best choice for a landscape plant.
Like many perennials, it will die back when cold weather comes but
will quickly return in the spring. So to answer your question,
we would not want you to prune it back to encourage it to produce
more flowers and therefore more seed. It might be best to allow
it to go dormant during the winter to avoid over-production of seeds.
Orchid
Q: I found this plant in my yard. What is it? 
A: I believed it to be a terrestrial orchid but sent photos to UF Herbarium so they could give me more information. They identified it as Zeuxine strateumatica (L.) Schltr., commonly known as Soldier's Orchid or Lawn Orchid. It is native to Asia but is commonly found on open, grassy, and disturbed sites throughout Florida.Flowers occur during the fall through winter (Oct--Jan), but occasionally in the spring. It is found most often in moist areas, including lawns, roadsides, nurseries, farm fields, occasionally hammocks and pinelands. Within a few weeks of producing flowers, the plants are gone. The following year, they may return; then again, they may not. We should count ourselves fortunate to have seen these pretty plants as they may not be here next year.
Plectranthus
Q: I keep seeing this plant in the garden centers but I am not sure what type of environment it prefers. Can you give me some information on it?
A: The plant you gave me was
from the genus Plectranthus, 
which
is being sold all over this area. This plant is from the mint
family and has very fragrant leaves. We would classify as an
annual for Nassau as its cold hardiness is for zones 9b-11 – remember
Nassau County is 8b-9a so these plants are just outside our zone. Once
the plants have been established for a year or more they can develop
woody stems at the base and can therefore become more resistant to
frost damage. The flowers are pink, purple or white and under
proper conditions bloom from spring through fall, which means the
flowers are seldom damaged by frost. Plectranthus are easily
cultivated and require little extra attention or special treatment. It
tolerates a wide variety of light conditions but thrive in semi shade,
which makes them ideally suited to grow under the shade of trees.
Plectranthus are often grown for their attractive foliage, flowers
or both and vary in their growth forms from dense prostrate ground
covers to sub-shrubs and large shrubs.
Rain Lilies
Q: My neighbor suggested I plant rain lilies but I don’t know anything about them. Can you give me more information?
A: I was unfamiliar with these plants too until
we decided to add them to our demonstration garden. 
This
group of charming bulbs, also known as pink fairy lilies, Zephyr
lilies, and rain lilies is native to North America. In the wild,
flowers bloom after a rain. Incredibly climatically diverse, they
can be found wild in tropical lowlands, rain forests, and arid deserts.
There are rain lilies for every climatic zone that does not experience
long periods of freezing weather. They seem to be quite happy under
domestication, and can be planted year round in North Florida. Rain
lilies thrive in conditions not favorable for true garden lilies.
They produce lush clumps of foliage in the fall when the weather
is cool and can be mistaken during the winter for liriope. Spectacular
effects can be achieved when used in mass plantings. Each species
has a different time schedule for flowering, reaching a peak in July
and August. With careful selection of at least six species you can
have orange, pink, yellow, white, rose, or red rain lilies flowering
for nine months of the year from mid-March until mid-November.
Roses
Q: My question for you is about roses. When are you supposed to cut them back?
A: You can cut back suckers and dead or diseased
canes anytime. 
True
pruning is done between December and January here in Northeast Florida.
Leave at least half the length of each main cane that is one to three
years old. Always cut just above a bud to avoid cane dieback. The
first flowers can be expected eight to nine weeks after pruning.
Grooming roses is a little more time consuming, but this process
keeps the plant blooming throughout the season. Grooming requires
removing faded flowers and preventing the rose plant from developing
seed, which is a waste of its energy. Any growth coming from the
rootstock should be broken off rather than pruned to discourage any
future growth from that area. The rootstock is generally a poor flower
producing plant but is used because of its ability to tolerate cold
or resist disease. Check out the University of Florida on-line publication
by Dr. McFadden and Dr. Black at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG036
Q: What is causing these big, black spots on the leaves of my roses?
A: This
disease is appropriately called “Black Leaf Spot.” 
It
is caused by a fungus, which can be especially troublesome
during wet weather. Since
we are currently experiencing drought conditions you might
ask how such a disease can be a problem. This
fungus is spread from leaf to leaf by water and wind and the
problem becomes compounded by over-head irrigation when leaves
stay wet for extended periods of time. Most
plants, including roses, prefer to be watered directly at the
root area. Not only
is this form of irrigation better for the plant it also has
other advantages. Those
advantages include reduction of loss of water through evaporation
and lower incidents of disease. Sanitation
methods such as removal of diseased plant material from around
the base of the plant will also be beneficial. Local garden
centers and nurseries sell many varieties of fungicides to
help manage this disease. Remember,
fungicides work best as protectants rather than a cure. Therefore,
apply fungicides on new plant growth to protect them from fungal
spores. Remember to
always read the label before applying any chemical to your
landscape. You will
need to combine your efforts by using chemicals as well as
changing your irrigation methods.
Spiderwort
Q: In past years I have just mowed these down pretty purple flowers. This year I have a small group of them in my yard and they are rather attractive. What is it and can it be transplanted into a group? It would be very inexpensive landscaping.
A: This spring I have received dozens of calls on this plant. It is interesting how some years the wildflowers are extremely showy and attract a great deal of attention? I appreciated the photo you sent me which made it very easy to identify. I believe your plant is probably the Common spiderwort, Tradescantia ohiensis. This plant is considered a wildflower by many people but it can be classified as a weed if located in the lawn. Common spiderwort is a perennial, which means it returns from season to season. It may die back during cold weather but returns during the warm spring temperatures. It is asily grown in well-drained, acid, sandy soil. Common spiderwort prefers full sun to part shade. It is very tolerant of part shade but it may produce fewer blooms under these conditions. These plants can be transferred from one site to another. They are propagated by division, similar to dividing lilies, and can be easily grown in groups. The stems may grow over 2 feet tall, but they should be cut back to 6-12" in mid-summer to encourage new growth and a possible fall bloom.
Spring Lady's Tresses
Q: I have seen flowers growing along side the road. They are sitting atop a stalk about 8-12 inches high. The flowers are very tiny and white. They spiral around the top of the stalk. What are they?
A: How observant of you! I have been seeing this
plant too on my walks around my home. I believe the wildflowers
you are describing are called Spring Lady’s Tresses, Spiranthes
vernalis. 
This plant is a terrestrial orchid and different
varieties of it appear in the spring, summer and fall. Some
nurseries will sell a close relative of the Spring Lady’s
Tresses which produces a pleasant fragrant. This orchid
is a monocot (for you Master Gardeners and science advocates)
which means it looks similar to plants in the grass family. It
can grow in a variety of site conditions but seems to prefer
sandy soil. Spring Lady’s Tresses can be found as
far west as Texas and north to Canada; all along the eastern
part of the United States. In Illinois, New Hampshire,
New York, and Pennsylvania this plant is listed by the U.S. federal
government as endangered. It is on the threatened list
for Iowa and Massachusetts and several states
have it listed as rare. This should remind us that even
the tiny, inconspicuous flowers are valuable.
Tulips
Q: How would I go about growing tulips here?
A: Unfortunately, many of the common bulbs of northern
states such as tulips, hyacinths, and some irises and lilies 
do not grow well in Florida. Very often these bulbs flower poorly
or not at all, even in northern Florida. However, with special
treatment many of these northern bulbs will grow and bloom the
first year. Recovering bulbs for planting the following year
is not recommended because the bulbs rarely flower again. Bulbs
require chilling for about 60 days at 40°F and 120 days at
50°F. Bulbs chilled in a refrigerator with ripening fruit
may fail to bloom. The gas (ethylene) produced by ripening fruit
can cause the flower buds to abort. Plant bulbs immediately upon
removal from cold storage. Discard bulbs after blooming and plant
new ones each year. There are plenty of other perennial
flowering choices that would bring you much more pleasure year
after year. Consider lilies such as cannas, crinum or calla. Try
your hand at Dahlia, Watsonia, or Sternbergia. The University
of Florida/IFAS publication below will give you more specific
information on selection and general care of bulbs for Northeast
Florida. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG029
Turks Turban
Q: I have attached a picture of a plant that is thriving on Sapelo Island. It is about 5' tall and the flowers are waxy. It is really putting on a show now. Do you have any idea what it could be? I can't find it in any book.
A: Thank you for sending the photos of this plant.
I was not familiar with it so I contacted the University of Florida
Herbarium to assist me.
They
quickly identified it as Clerodendrum indicum (L.) Kuntze,
commonly referred to as skyrocket or turk's turban, in the Lamiaceae
(mint family). Do not confuse this plant with other Clerodendrums
(such as bleeding heart) or the squash variety often called turk’s
turban. Clerodendrum indicum (L.) Kuntze escaped from the
East Indies and became naturalized in Florida and 5 other southern
states. It is now found in South America and even as far away as
Hawaii. In some areas it is classified as a Category 2 invasive,
which means you are encouraged to dig it up and remove it whenever
possible. Therefore we would not encourage you to propagate it although
it easily propagates by seed or rhizome. Clerodendrum indicum (L.)
Kuntze is found in disturbed uplands or rockland hammocks generally
in full sun but it can grow in partial shade too. It produces white
flowers in the summer. The red petal-like structures you see during
late summer and fall are actually called calyxes. Calyx is the term
used for a group of sepals. Sepals are the green structures that
protect a flower bud prior to opening.
Vinca
Q: My vinca plants are not doing well. Will you test the soil pH for me?
A: I did test the soil and the pH measured approximately
7.2. 
It was slightly higher (or more alkaline) than most
plants prefer, which is somewhere in the range of 6.0 – 6.5. Most
vinca varieties tolerate a wide range of soil types and pH. Vinca
are incredibly hardy and many are somewhat “weedy.” I
planted one seed packet 3 years ago with no irrigation and no
fertilizer and they are still showing up all over my yard! Therefore,
I felt something else must be causing the plants to perform poorly. After
further discussion, I concluded you might be over-watering these
hardy plants. Although we are in a drought situation, irrigating
most plants more than once a week is too much. Vegetables
are an exception to this general irrigation suggestion. Your
plants appeared to have a root rot. Cut back irrigation
and remove any dead or dying plants immediately. Use pine
product mulch to help conserve water, lower pH and keep temperatures
consistent around the root area.