Herbs and Vegetables
Basil
Q: I am thinking about growing basil. Will it grow well here?
A: Sweet basil, Ocimum basilicum, will grow very well here. It should be planted in the early spring but I have started it later in the season (early summer) and have still been successful. Some forms of basil are used in cooking but other varieties such as Ocimum auranascen are grown for their ornamental qualities. Use soil with high organic content - compost would be perfect. Basil can be propagated from seed or small plantings. It can be grown in garden plots or patio containers in full sun. Basil does not tolerate drought conditions but prefers consistently moist soil. Although, I trained my basil to receive water only once and week and it grew beautifully. However, too much water will easily cause disease issues. Basil is especially rewarding as the aroma can be detected even when walking past the plant. It can be added to sauces, vinegars, breads or soups. Nothing can compare to the improved flavor of adding fresh basil to pasta or sauce dishes. Although, I must admit, I love it sprinkled on top of sliced tomatoes from my garden – yum. We will be discussing growing herbs at the next Nassau County Extension “Landscape Matters” which will be on Wednesday, May 21 at 10am at the Nassau County Demonstration Garden. For more information on growing herbs in Florida see the attached University of Florida publication, “Herbs in the Florida Garden”: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VH020 or go to the Nassau County Extension website: http://nassau.ifas.ufl.edu
Beans
Q: I purchased three different kinds of bean seeds from various local garden centers. Some of the seeds came up quickly and others still have not germinated. What is wrong with the seed?
A: The ability of seeds to germinate or sprout is called viability. Often the seed packet will give you a percentage of the number of seeds you can expect to germinate. The higher the percentage rate on the packet of seeds the greater chance of the seeds sprouting. Some seed come coated with fungicides to protect them during their early development stages if they are susceptible to fungal diseases. Viable and dead seeds in some plant species can be separated by placing the seed in water. Living seeds will sink but dead, empty seeds will float. This is a good means of identifying dead oak and pindo palm seeds, but it does not work with all plants. Seeds of many plants can be stored and germinated weeks, months or even years. Factors affecting the viability of seeds during storage include the plant’s own genetic make-up, moisture content of the seed, temperature and humidity. It is important to know how long the seeds are stored on the shelf as some seeds may lose viability after a few weeks or a year, again depending on the plant. Most seeds prefer to be stored in cool, dry areas. You might consider ordering your seed from a reputable seed catalog company if you have had poor results from local garden centers. Propagating your vegetables from seed has a long history with vegetable growers throughout the county and a source of great pride. Be sure you choose vegetables that grow well in our area. There are certain varieties that grow well in our hot, humid summers; others do not prosper as well. If you would like a copy of the vegetable guide for Northeast Florida please contact the UF/IFAS Nassau County Extension Office. The main office in Callahan is at 543350 U.S. Highway #1, 904 879-1019. The Yulee Satellite office is at 86026 Pages Dairy Rd., 904 548-1116. The vegetable guide gives specific planting information such as what time of year, what varieties to select, spacing and harvesting times. This guide is free to the public because of support from the University of Florida/IFAS and Nassau County Board of County Commissioners.
Cauliflower
Q: I know I am supposed to cover the head of my cauliflower so it will stay white but I don’t know when I should do it.
A: Although you have been successful, cauliflower 
can
be a difficult vegetable to grow successfully in the vegetable
garden mostly because it prefers temperatures in the 60 to 70 degree
range. At higher temperatures, cauliflower will not head properly. It
also requires adequate water and fertilizer for optimal performance.
In order to maintain its flavor and firm consistency, cauliflower
must be kept snowy white. This is done by tying the leaves together
over the heads when the heads are between 2-3 inches in diameter. The
heads should be examined from time to time to see when they are
ready to cut. If you let them stay too long, the heads get
loose and grainy, and lose much of their tenderness. In
Cantelope
Q: I planted so many fruit seeds and lost so many plants I no longer know what is growing. Can you tell me if this plant is cantaloupe or watermelon? What are some good choices for seedless watermelon?
A: Well, this is the first time I have been asked that question. I am glad you brought in several samples of the leaves as it made it easier to identify. You leaf is from a cantaloupe plant. Watermelon leaves are much more lobed than the cantaloupe leaf. Cantaloupe should be grown in warm climates with low humidity. Rots can easily occur in wet, humid climates or if too much irrigation is applied too often. Cantaloupe prefers fertile, well-drained slightly acidic sandy or silt loam soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Additions of high levels of nitrogen may prevent plants from maximum fruit production and maturity. Use formulations of fertilizers similar to 6-6-6 or 8-8-8, which can be easily found at any garden center. Applications of pesticides should be done before sunrise or after dark to reduce the chance of applying it directly to bees which are essential for pollination. Seedless watermelon choices for Florida are: Crimson Trio, Genesis, King of Hearts, Merrilee III, Millionaire, or Scarlet Trio. For more information on growing seedless watermelon check out the University of Florida publication: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CV006
Corn
Q: Whenever I plant sweet corn it always turns out
like my neighbors field corn. Any ideas why?
A: What may be occurring is the pollen from your neighbors field corn 
may
be reaching the silks of your sweet corn and altering the flavor. Corn
is cross-pollinated by wind-blown pollen from the male flowers or tassels at
the top of the plant to the female flowers or silks about midway up the stalks.
Each kernel develops from an individually pollinated silk. Super sweet hybrids
carry a genetic factor which results in a high sugar content. The super sweet
character is lost if the corn is pollinated by ordinary sweet corn or field corn,
so the super sweet hybrids should be planted away from any other types of corn
(several hundred feet might work best). According to Texas A & M, the flavor
of sweet corn is also highly dependent on weather conditions. If it rains within
a week of harvest time, the flavor of sweet corn is often greatly diminished.
If the corn matures during high daytime temperatures as well as high nighttime
temperatures, the sugar levels of sweet corn will be low and flavor will be disappointing.
The sugar in sweet corn is converted to starch rapidly even under optimum storage
conditions so the corn should be cooked soon after harvest. The best varieties
in
Ginger
Q: Can I grow ginger here? I left it in the refrigerator and it is beginning to sprout.
A: Obviously you are referring to the root, Zingiber officinale, and not the ornamental plant ginger. And to answer your question, yes we can grow ginger in Northeast Florida. Ginger is a perennial plant meaning it has several growing seasons but in Florida that may mean only about 2 years. It has been grown in China and the Caribbean for centuries and used for medicine and in cooking. The underground structure is called a rhizome and it can be divided into pieces about 1-2 inches long. In order for it to successfully grow each section must have at least one “eye” (much like the eye on a potato). Allow the cut pieces time to dry before planting to avoid rotting. Ginger rhizomes should be planted in the early spring but you could put them in a pot to get them started if you wanted to grow them now. The cut sections will produce a 2-3 foot narrow stalk of leaves. Gingers prefer partial shaded areas and you should plant them in a mixture of sand and cow manure. You can dig up the ginger rhizomes in the fall or once you see the tops dying.http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/
Gourd
Q: I have gourds that have been ripped off the vine during the hurricane. Can I still save them and dry them?
A: Ornamental gourds are closely related to
the pumpkin and squash we eat. Some of the ornamental gourds are
edible such as luffa gourd (sometimes called running okra) as long
as it is immature. A few of the edible squashes are quite ornamental
when mature,
such
as the yellow crookneck squash and the turban (Turk's cap) squash.
Ornamental gourds are prized for their unusual shapes and often
painted and carved into useful household objects such as birdhouses,
baskets or planters. They can be grown throughout Florida but in
Northeast Florida, they should be planted after the threat of frost
is over. If possible, ornamental gourds should be allowed to mature
on the vine and once matured they should be cut from the vine using
a sharp knife. If they are blow off the vine, as in your case,
only mature gourds should be used because immature ones will rot.
The outside of the mature gourds should be washed with mild soap
and water then allowed to dry. Placing them on a screen or strong
netting allows air to circulate completely around the whole gourd.
Be sure none of the gourds are touching each other and rotate the
gourd every few days. If soft, black spots develop on the outside
it is an indication of rot and the gourd should be thrown away.
Once you hear the seeds rolling around inside you know the gourd
has completely dried, which may take several months. Keep them
out of direct sunlight as the color of the gourd may fade. Mold
may develop on the outside but that provides interesting patterns.
I have a gourd with a mold pattern that mimics bird’s-eye
maple – very pretty.
Herbs
Q: What herbs can I grow here in the cool months?
A: Cool season herbs are cilantro/coliander, dill, fennel, sorrel, thyme, sweet marjoram, oregano, salad burnet, St. Johns Wort, soap wort, lavender, and viola. Parsley and calendula can take the cold but they will show damage if the temperature drops below 20 degrees, however they will re-grow when temperatures rise again. Nasturtiums, geraniums and lemon balm like cooler weather too but they cannot tolerate frost. Many of these herbs are can be found in our local garden and nurseries. Start out with a small area and try a few of your favorites. Consider first growing those herbs you are fond of using in your favorite recipes. Don’t be afraid to cut or use the herbs they will grow back quickly. I believe everyone will notice how wonderful your recipes taste when you use freshly grown herbs. Growing herbs is one of the easiest and most rewarding garden hobbies. Have fun and good luck.
Pumpkin
Q: We tried last year to grow pumpkins and gourds with no success. The pumpkins would flower then essentially rot before turning into fruit. The gourds didn’t do much of anything. I was wondering if there’s a particular kind that does better.
A: Pumpkins and gourds are from the same family and
have been grown in our area with much success. However, the
site needs good drainage, full sun and good air circulation.
Pumpkins
especially need plenty of room to grow and it takes about 4 months
to mature. According to J.M.Stephens, a retired professor from
UF, select such varieties as 'Big Max', Connecticut Field', 'Small
Sugar', 'Spookie', 'Cinderella' or 'Atlantic Giant'.
There are ornamental pumpkins available if you only want the look
but not the food product. Here in North Florida, pumpkins should
be planted between March and April or wait until August. Seeds
should be planted in a row about 1-2 inches deep and 3 - 6 feet
apart. Each row should be spaced 5-7 feet apart from each
other. So you can see how much room they require. Avoid
overhead irrigation if possible to help control any fungal growth,
drip irrigation works best. The problem of producing blooms but not
fruit is generally the result of having no bees to pollinate your
plants and all squashes, cucumbers, and pumpkins require insect pollination. If
you don't have enough bees around to pollinate your plants then
you must pollinate them yourself. Take a fine paint brush,
one an artist would use, and once the flower opens simply dust the
pollen from the male flower onto the female flower. If you
don’t know which is the male and female flower, don’t
worry, just stroke the paint brush in each of the flowers and some
pollen should be transferred. Think of yourself as one great big
bee! Avoid the overuse of insecticides as that often contributes
to killing off of the important bees and beneficial insects. Check
out Dr. Stephens’s publication for more specific information
on pumpkins: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MV116 and
gourds: http://edis.ifas.ufl.ed/MV073
Squash
Q: Something is boring into my squash and cucumber plants. What is it and what can I do about it?
A: Several beetles (some spotted or striped) have been known to cause damage to the cucurbit plant family, which includes melons, squashes and cucumbers. The larvae of these beetles feed on roots of the plants as soon as they start to grow by boring into the roots and stems. The plant can die immediately or the feeding may cause it to be stunted which reduces the potential output of the plant. Often these beetles survive the winter, waiting for the next season of plants to arrive. During the growing season, the adult beetles feed on the nectar, leaves, fruit or flowers of the plant but they do far less damage than larvae. Another serious problem with cucumber beetles is their ability to transmit fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. Infected plants eventually wilt and die. If you find your squash or cucumbers have the wilt or root rot, they should be removed and destroyed. Next year consider choosing a variety of cucurbit seed which has proven to have some resistance to these diseases. Handpicking to remove the beetles is time-consuming but works well. Eliminate weeds in and around the garden as they often supply an additional food sources for the adult beetle. Some over the counter insecticides may give you some control over the adult beetle but once the larvae are in the stem or root, little can be done. A granular insecticide works best when applied at planting or soon afterward.
Q: My squash is beautiful this year, it has plenty of flowers and will put out a small squash but it soon falls off. I have no squash. What is wrong?
A: Most garden vegetables such as beans, peppers or
tomatoes have complete flowers. 
This
means that each flower has both male structures and female structures
on the same flower. The squash family - cucumbers, squashes and melons
- has incomplete flowers. These plants have either male or female
flowers. Incomplete flowers need some help in pollination and usually
that help comes from bees or other pollinating insects. Ultimately
some of the bees may come around and pollinate for you, but you can
help the process along by hand pollinating. Take a small soft paintbrush
and transfer the yellow pollen from the male flower to the female
flower. The female flower will have a swollen structure at the end
of a stalk in the middle of the flower. Be sure to transfer the pollen
from the male flower to the tip of the stalk in the female flower.
Within two or three days you should know whether you were successful.
Q: Our local community garden in Hilliard has produced a zucchini that is over 3 pounds. Can you tell me the largest local zucchini recorded?
A: What a fun question. This is just the kind of question that makes the internet worthwhile. I checked the University of Florida Vegetarian Newsletter dated April 2005. According to this publication the record winning zucchini was a Park’s black zucchini weighing at 14 pounds 10 ounces by grower in Nassau County named Lynch. This record was set in 1999. A hybrid zucchini weighed in at 16 pounds 6 ounces by a Marion county grower in 2001. Now you have your work cut out for you. I would encourage all of you to plan on a fall garden and then you can bring in your beautiful harvest to the Northeast Florida County Fair in October where it could possibly win a blue ribbon. I would love to see the community come together and show the rewards of their labor. Just this year the record for largest sweet potato and turnip were broken. Although retired, Jim Stephens still keeps up with Florida’s biggest vegetables as one of his Emeritus Professor duties. The system he employs still requires the assistance of Extension agents in each county following guidelines established in 1989. Prior to that year, no one kept records of big vegetables grown in Florida. Palm Beach County holds the most Florida records with 12 out of the 53 kept. The runner-up is Suwannee County with eight records. If you are interested in the Vegetarian Newsletter check out this website for a printable version -http://www.hos.ufl.edu/vegetarian/
Q: My summer squash is producing loads of fruit. The problem is they only get the size of my first pinky finger joint and then they fall off. What is wrong?
A: I suspect your squash is not getting pollinated. Squash, in addition to all the cucurbits like watermelon and cucumbers, have male and female flowers. In order for the female to produce completely mature fruit; her flower must be pollinated by the pollen from male flowers. The pollen from the male flowers is deposited on the female flowers as the bees go from flower to flower gathering nectar. Unfortunately, we have been seeing the populations of bees diminishing in greater numbers every year. We are not certain of the root cause of the decline in bee populations but we have certainly been seeing the result - fewer fully developed fruit. What can we do? First, you can pollinate your own plants. I know it sounds crazy but since you have a small garden it can be done by hand. Take a small artist paint brush and go from flower to flower. This will transfer the pollen manually. Your flowers will ultimately produce fully developed fruit. Of course, this is not practical for farmers therefore missing bees is a serious threat to their fruit and vegetable production. Those of us with home gardens can also use pesticide wisely. Overuse of insecticides can cause pest resistance and be harmful to bee populations. Use pesticides judiciously for the best results now and in the future. “The Label is the Law.”
Sweet Potato
Q: Are the words sweet potato and yams interchangeable?
A: This
is the season when this question gets asked most often.
I
took the following information from Texas A&M Extension. Hopefully,
this will answer your question. “Several
decades ago when orange flesh sweet potatoes were introduced in
the southern United States producers and shippers desired to distinguish
them from the more traditional white flesh (potato) types. The
African word "nyami" referring to the starchy, edible
root of the Dioscorea genus of plants was adopted in its
English form, "yam". Yams in the U.S. are actually sweet
potatoes with relatively moist texture and orange flesh. Although
the terms are generally used interchangeably, the U.S. Department
of Agriculture requires that the label "yam" always
be accompanied by "sweet potato." As a main dish or prepared
as a dessert, the sweet potato is a nutritious and economical food.
One baked sweet potato (3 1/2 ounce serving) provides over 8,800
IU of vitamin A or about twice the recommended daily allowance,
yet it contains only 141 calories making it valuable for the weight
watcher. This nutritious vegetable provides 42 percent of the Recommended
Daily Allowance (RDA) for vitamin C, 6 percent of the RDA for calcium,
10 percent of the RDA for iron, and 8 percent of the RDA for thiamine
for healthy adults. It is low in sodium and is a good source of
fiber and other important vitamins and minerals. A complex carbohydrate
food source, it provides beta carotene which may be a factor in
reducing the risk of certain cancers. When buying sweet potatoes
select sound, (deep orange) firm roots. Handle
them carefully to prevent bruising. Storage in a dry, unrefrigerated
bin kept at 55-60 degrees F. is best. DO NOT REFRIGERATE, because
temperatures below 55 degrees F. will chill this tropical vegetable
giving it a hard core and an undesirable taste when cooked.” Sweet
potato, Ipomoea batatas, is
a dicot and a true root from the morning glory family. The
flesh is moist and sweet containing high levels of beta carotene. On
the other hand, yams, Dioscorea species, are monocots
and the tubers are dry and starchy. Most
of what is produced, grown and sold in the U.S. is the sweet potato.
Tomato
Q: My tomato plants have wilted from the top. They look like they need to be watered but I know they have been getting enough water. I cut the stem like you suggested and I see a brown ring. What does it mean?
A: It sounds like Fusarium wilt. The earliest
symptom is the yellowing of the older, lower leaves. It is a soil
borne fungus that attacks tomatoes and other crops.
The
yellowing process gradually includes more and more of the foliage
and is accompanied by wilting of the plant during the hottest part
of the day. The wilting becomes more extensive from day to day until
the plant collapses and dries up. The vascular tissue of a diseased
plant is dark brown in color. This browning often extends far up
the stem and is especially noticeable in a petiole scar. This browning
of the vascular system is characteristic of the disease and generally
can be used for its identification. Fruit infection occasionally
occurs and can be detected by the vascular tissue discoloration within
the fruit. It is controlled only through the use of resistant varieties.
Before you plant a variety, make sure it is resistant to Fusarium
wilt. This resistance is denoted by the letter F after the name.
Example: Celebrity VFN. A 5-7 year crop rotation will greatly
reduce losses on infested land or grow the few plants you have in
pots.
Q: My tomatoes have scarring on them. They are hard and don’t fully ripen. What is wrong with them?
A: After bringing in examples of your tomatoes, it
was easy to identify this physiological problem called cat
face. 
Physiological conditions are caused by weather
or climate and therefore no application of pesticides is recommended.
The symptoms are malformation and scarring at the fruit’s
blossom. This scarring can coincide with empty cavities
toward the center of the fruit. Brown bands of scar tissue
usually are located between the swelling tissues. Some
cultivars are more likely to show cat facing than others, such
as the large, beef tomatoes or some Celebrity varieties. Prolonged
unseasonably cool weather may be one of the causes and we had
an unseasonably cool spring this year. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer
may also aggravate the problem. Cat face also may follow exposure
to growth-hormone-type herbicides such as 2,4-D. It
is always wise to avoid spraying herbicides in the vicinity
of vegetable or flower gardens.
Q: My tomatoes have been ripening but the ends have turned black and mushy. What is wrong?
A: I have had a deluge of tomato problems but this one
is very common. It is called blossom end rot. 
The
first thing is to be sure the tomatoes are being irrigated
on a regular basis. Remember not to over-water but irrigate
at the whole root area. Blossom end rot can also be caused
by a combination of lack of water and calcium. In addition
to watering properly, add calcium to the soil around the root
area. Use calcium nitrate but not the calcium found in
ammonia fertilizers. Remove the infected fruit but do
not be tempted to prune away large portions of the vine. Addition
of mulch may also prove beneficial at keeping the root area
moist and temperatures at the roots moderate.
Q: What is wrong with my tomato leaves?
A: The long thin lines on your tomato leaf are probably caused by the vegetable leafminer, Liriomyza sativae Blanchard. The information I am giving you is adapted from a University of Florida/IFAS publication called, “Vegetable Leafminer.” This insect is found commonly in the southern United States from Florida to California. It cannot survive cold areas except in greenhouses; therefore the vegetable leafminer is found only in southern states. Eggs are inserted into plant tissue just beneath the leaf surface and hatch in about three days. Females may deposit eggs at a rate of 30 to 40 per day, which potentially means they can deposit up to 400 or more eggs in their lifetime. An application of foliar insecticides may be require more than once. Many organophosphate and carbamate insecticides are no longer effective. Overuse of the pesticides listed above may kill beneficial insects which keep the leaf miner fly under control. As a result, leafminer outbreaks sometimes increase when pesticides used. Some crops vary in susceptibility to leaf mining, but they are commonly found on several varieties of tomato, cucumber, cantaloupe, and beans. You might consider using horticulture oil for control. Be sure the product can be used on vegetables and follow the directions on the label. Removal of some of the leaves may help, but be sure you don’t remove too many. Although tomatoes are not the easiest crop to grow because they require a lot of attention, many of us feel the effort is well worth it once you taste a home grown tomato. Yum!
Soil
Q: I need to lower the pH of my soil for vegetable planting. My soil test from the University of Florida Extension soil lab said I should use sulfur, but I cannot find it anywhere. Do you have any ideas? MK
A: I have adapted the answer to this question from a publication titled, “Soil pH and the Landscape or Home Garden” by Shober and Denny. The full publication is attached at the end of this answer. Vegetable gardens prefer the soil pH to be between 6.0 and 6.5. If the soil is highly alkaline (over 7) then it might be necessary to raise the pH. It is difficult to bring the pH of the soil down from an alkaline state as the soil has the ability to buffer the acid and keep the pH high. In fact, lowering the pH will probably only be lowered on a temporary basis. Much of our soils come from limestone which are naturally pH levels. When you consider the high pH of our city water or well water you can see how difficult it would be to maintain a low pH. Adding elemental sulfur will lower the pH temporarily and only at the site of application. Repeat applications will probably be necessary for best results. However, one must be careful not to add too much or too often as this can damage the plants. Never apply more than “5 to 10 pounds of sulfur per 1,000 square feet per application.” Watch the plants carefully to determine if damage is occurring. Some other choices for lowing soil pH are ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate, or aluminum sulfate. Do not use calcium sulfate [gypsum], magnesium sulfate [Epsom salt], or potassium sulfate. Some of the manures will actually raise the soil pH as they contain materials with high alkaline products. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS480