Masterful Gardening 7.21.07
by Nelson Peterson, Master Gardener
There’s a lot to consider
when choosing your grass
Lawn care! Some of us love it and some of us hate it. Whatever you decide for your home, just remember landscaping draws attention from people passing your home, and you want to present the best “curb appeal.”
The Nassau County Extension office every
year receives hundreds of questions regarding
lawn grasses and conducts various seminars
during the year on turf grasses as well
as other topics.
Some of the turf grasses that grow well
in Nassau County are St. Augustine, Bermuda
and Seashore Paspalum.
St. Augustine grass is a popular variety for residential and commercial lawns. It grows well in a wide range of soil acidities, is drought-tolerant, (the minimum amount of water or moisture that a turf grass requires to live) shade-tolerant, and has medium maintenance levels. By maintenance levels I mean how much time and effort you want to devote to your lawn.
Bermuda grass is mainly found on golf courses and athletic fields. Bermuda characteristics are wide range of soil acidities, good drought tolerance, good salt tolerance, excellent wear tolerance (which is why it is used on golf courses and athletic fields), and medium to high levels of maintenance.
In areas close to the ocean which receive a high concentration of salt, a Seashore Paspalum turf grass might be better. Seashore Paspalum, like St. Augustine, can grow in a wide variety of soils, has excellent salt tolerance and good drought tolerance, but poor shade tolerance. Maintenance levels are similar to St. Augustine grass.
The main “take-home” message is to avoid the common practice of doing too much. Homeowners often water too much, fertilize too much and mow too much of the grass blade. Remember that turf grass derives its food from its leaves, not from fertilizing it.
Here are some hints to help you maintain
or improve your lawn’s curb appeal:
— Mow or cut no more than a third of the
grass leaf at any one time.
— Mower blades must be sharp. Change them
every four cuttings and resharpen.
— Water no more than two times weekly during
the summer, and every 10 to 14 days during
winter.
— Water long enough to put three-quarters
of an inch during a watering cycle. A deeper
watering of your turf grass forces the
roots to follow the water as it percolates
through the soil’s depth. Putting three-quarters
of an inch of water dampens the soil to
a depth of 12 inches in most locations.
This deeper root system enhances the turf
grass’s ability to handle stress caused
by drought. Shallow and frequent watering
can foster fungus, which will seriously
weaken or kill the grass.
— Learn when to water your turf grass.
Look at the grass blades — do they fold
over or fold together? Do your foot prints
remain in the grass after you walk through
it? Is it turning blue gray? These are
all indicators the turf grass is telling
you, “I need water.” When your grass blades
are “flat” or “open,” they are fully hydrated
and do not need watering.
— Underground irrigation systems should
have a rain sensor. This will prevent overwatering
during or after a rainfall.
— Fertilize using a slow-release fertilizer
and follow application frequency recommendations
according to grass type. Avoid using nitrogen
fertilizers in the summer. Instead, apply
iron sulfate to help green up the lawn.
Look at the label on fertilizer. By law,
ingredients must be listed on the bag.
If a fertilizer is slow release, it should
read “Ureaform/Nitroform or sulfur-coated
forms of slow release nitrogen.”
Whether you live by the ocean or inland in Nassau County, there is a turf grass that will suit your requirements. If you need help, clarification or have questions regarding your lawn, contact the Nassau County Extension office at 548-1116 or 879-1019. For more information about lawn care, including how to respond to weeds and pests, visit nassau.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/landmatters/weeds.html.
Special/Nassau County Extension Service -- Brown patch disease, a fungus disease, usually begins as small, 1-foot patches that turn yellow and then reddish-brown, brown or straw-colored as the leaves start to die. Patches can expand to several feet in diameter.



